I'm currently in the process of putting a new sign together, for an acquaintance, opening a shop in town. It will be 4 ft. high by 6 ft. long, and double-sided. It will hang from hooks, on an existing pole, extending out from the front of the building.
This particular sign will last (hopefully) for a couple of years, to see if the business will go as expected, then a lighted sign will replace it.
I'm trying to keep the costs down, so here's my plan. I'm also trying to keep the weight down. I've thought about using a wooden frame, made of non-treated 2X6's (lighter) double-primed to seal.
The faces will be done on Excel aluminum composite panels (sandwich, with plastic in between). I was planning on glueing the faces onto the frame, with no screws (electrolysis). I'm wondering what adhesive would you use for this? It will be out in the weather, for a couple of years, painted and sealed all around.
I've had mixed results with Liquid Nails-type adhesives over the years, outside. Construction adhesive? Brands? This will be for bonding painted wood to aluminum. Thanks for the help.
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
why not just get some 10mm alumicore? gives you 2 sides....lot less weight, even with a wood frame. and instead of a wood frame, you COULD, do 3 layers of 10mm alumicore......and glue those together with gorilla glue.
[ July 07, 2013, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: old paint ]
Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
I've never had a failure in the 15 years that I've used them.
Posted by Bob Sauls (Member # 11321) on :
I've been pleased with PL adhesives. But I would run a few screws if I were making this.
2x6 seems sort of heavy to me Dale. Consider 1x2 sandwiched between the Poly-Metal panels, attached with counter sunk bevel head screws, then miter a frame on both sides of a good pvc molding, glue that on the faces to hide the screws. nice and light weight. Most DTM latex sticks well to the pvc after a good washing.
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
A couple of local places have the PL adhesives; I'll check them out today. I'm under the gun to get this sign done, so I don't have time to order materials from an out-of-town supplier (OP).
I guess the 2 X 6's might be a little heavy, Bob; but I'm planning on using the larger boards on the ends of the sign, and bolting those long steel flat strap hanger hooks thru these boards, into the ends of the sign. The polymetal is not very strong, structurally, so I was trying to keep from bolting thru the faces.
I'm still a little hesitant about running screws thru the faces, due to electrolysis around them.
Thanks for the help, guys.
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Hiya Dale, That's a fairly large hanging sign that will take a lot of wind abuse. So, I would suggest no shortcuts and use glue and screws. But, that's just me.
Anyway, if you choose to pursue the budget route, a couple of aluminum panels mounted to a 1" square tube frame using VHB tape would likely be quick, easy and more than adequate to fit your needs. Check with your distributor to see what tape they recommend.
In the past, I've also used contact cement to attach aluminum panels to an aluminum frame. But, these were wall-mounted signs.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Ditto on Brian's aluminum frame. I use stainless steel screws with aluminum faces. Never had a problem.
Posted by Ron Percell (Member # 399) on :
rivets and aluminum clips with 3m 100% pure silicone from behind
if it's for an acquaintance, talk to them about it and seeing it's temporary I'd just suggest dado the frame.
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
Thanks for the input, guys. Since I'm kinda out in the "toolies", and I have other pressing commitments, I'm going with the wood frame to save time(and to keep costs down).
I will get some stainless steel screws for the faces, though. And, I have an adequate supply of GE silicone on hand. So I think everything will be OK.
