My roland CAMM1 has been working like a rock for 14 years, but recently it stopped in the middle of a cut - repeatedly. Sometimes it won't start at all and sometimes it starts but the blade won't move. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Rob
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Rob...Try switching cables first. I brought a perfectly good all-in-one printer/scanner back to life this winter by simply switching cables to test. Then spent about $5 for a new one.
After that, maybe it is time to buy a newer plotter? These days it is cheaper to buy new rather than paying for a professional repair. Just like printers.
I bet that OP and Curtis will jump in with additional thoughts.
[ April 16, 2012, 03:26 PM: Message edited by: Dave Grundy ]
Posted by Pete Payne (Member # 344) on :
Hey Robert, try one of your old files that you've cut before to make sure it's not a file issue, and try sliding the cut carriage by hand to see if it moves freely just in case there is a grabby spot that's tripping something, and 14 years is pretty good for a plotter!
Posted by Tim Barrow (Member # 576) on :
sounds like the micro switch that is engaged by the friction wheel lever is not engaging. On the old rolands it can come loose and will affect the way the plotter starts up or acts during a cut if it comes loose during a cut,...you'll need to remove the left side cover to find it and if you can't tighten it up and readjust it to work you can always install a small micro toggle switch to complete the circuit as if the lever actually were engaging the switch,...the plotter is stupid it won't know the difference between you manually completing the circuit and the lever doing it for you,..I have revived two or three old rolands this way,...
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
timi nailed it.......
Posted by Robert Root (Member # 758) on :
Thanks for the advice guys I will arm myself with a phillips screwdriver and have a look. Might be in the market for something used but good if anyone has something kicking around. 65 now and not ready to make a large investment.
Posted by Tim Barrow (Member # 576) on :
if you can't get your hands on a micro toggle switch when the old one can't be adjusted to engage,... you can always just twist the two wires together until you can find one,...problem is the plotter will always think the friction wheels are down and will react like they are if you turn it on,...
edited to add when the circuit is completed(wires connected) the plotter thinks the friction wheels are down and goes into it's precutting mode to measure the distance between the two friction wheels to poll the media(vinyl) width,...if they are not connected the plotter will think they are up and allow you to go into the setup menu with other setup options that need to be set when the wheels are not down,..the plotter will work just fine without the left cover and it will make access easy,..but won't look too neat,...
[ April 16, 2012, 06:24 PM: Message edited by: Tim Barrow ]
Posted by Bob Sauls (Member # 11321) on :
Make sure the electric eye is clear of dust.
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
This post was timely for me. I read it a few days ago, luckily as it turns out. I only use my plotter about once a month if that. Today I was cutting a set of truck doors. I got to the last line ( why is it always the last line ) and the plotter didn't cut the letters properly, skipping a few letters altogether and skipping some centers. I tried recutting and kept getting the blinking light. Ran the self test worked fine. Remembered what Dave said about the cable, switched it with another and it worked fine!
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
Wow George!!! I never tried truck doors in my plotter!!!
Do they track OK??? lololol!
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Rob sent me an e-mail saying that the printer cable replacement worked for him too George.
Sometimes we get lucky and a simple, cheap solution works.
