Is anyone here familiar with the new paint from 1-Shot called "copper"?
Is it a metalic like the gold or just a solid color?
If you have used it...what are the tips for application? Any longivity? Any hassles?
I am considering it for a project I just started and I need to know what you think....
Thanks in advance..
Jackson
Posted by FranCisco Vargas (Member # 145) on :
Jackson, I've used 1-Shot Metallic Copper, but haven't heard of one called 'Copper' if it's the Met Copper. I rolled it on with black foam roller covers. it was a metal sign kind of like a billboard. Did one last year, can't say to much on how long it will last. I guess lot depends on what side it's facing, what's the substrate, will you roll, spray, brush (that part could get tricky) you also have different kind of weather, I would wait till it warms up if it's to be painted outdoors, not sure if this helps you?
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
I striped an 18 wheeler with metallic copper and metallic gold O.S. some years back. The copper faded completely in less than a year I don't know what you're going to be using it on but I would suggest spraying an automotive paint. One Shot is NOT what it used to be.
Posted by Sonny Franks (Member # 588) on :
You may want to look into the Ronan Aqua-Leaf paints. I've used gold and copper and I highly recommend them for luster and exterior durability.....
Posted by Jackson Smart (Member # 187) on :
Thanks guys.....
I am doing a sandblasted HDU sign for the local native tribes visitors center. It is a bent box design with one drumhead on each end. A native design will be blasted into each drumhead and then painted black inside with the lite copper face. I didn't budget in real copper although there is real copper designs on each pole end in the front of the building. I am pretty good at faux finishes, so I think I will do it that way. I can make it look real. I do a lot of my work on signs to "fool the eye". There are a lot of work at this building in the future so I want to dazzle them with this one.
Cisco....yeah, the weather here plays a tough game on signs...so I am always building them to hold up.(Loved your video of the mural on the side of the building.)
George....I have used gold metallic paint and had nothing but problems....so if copper is metallic...then no more here....and you are right about 1-Shot. I remember when it was good paint.
Sonny.....I will do some research on this product. I am always happy to try something new. I would like to roll it on these drumheads after painting the design....but could also brush it on.
Thanks again for answering this for me....I would like to post a finished picture, but haven't figured that part out yet.
Take care....
Jackson
Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
how about copper dutch leaf with automotive clear?
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
I bought a bunch of copper triangle coatings metallic latex (same as "sophisticated finishes") and although I've sen Sawatzky pull off some amazing looks on his textured signs, I had some large flat areas to cover, hadn't trained myself up yet with the HVLP spraying gig... so I used some copper rattle can Rustoleum on HDU, and it looks pretty good!
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
I've had 1S copper turn green. The Ronan Aqua Leaf stuff is really nice to use. Covers much better than the 1S. But I am also somewhat OK at spraying that hammered finish metallic Rustoleum! Love.....Jill
Posted by Pete Payne (Member # 344) on :
I always coat the area with a similar colour prior to applying any aqua leaf colours, pale reddish brown for copper because the aqua leaf mica pigments are tranparent, not like metallics, also try the interference silver gold on dimensional things, really nice finish, as for mica pigments you can use them like bronze powder over slightly tacky surfaces for a very bright finish, but it will be a bit inconsistent but creates a certain movement this way, budget leaf! and it doesn't tarnish
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
I'm with Doug on this one, rattle-can copper looks good and holds up well in my Pennsylvania climate. I think it's Lowe's house brand, I can't find the can at the moment though.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
Posted by Len Mort (Member # 7030) on :
Jackson, check out Luminore sprayable, brushable metal coatings. www.luminore.com Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
Luminore is top notch but doesn't it take a $1200 instructional seminar to become a user of Luminore?
For a long lasting copper I would look into Sculpt Nouveau (800-728-5787) or go with mica powder mixed into urethane clear.
Posted by Jackson Smart (Member # 187) on :
Excellant advice from everyone.
I am going to research all of this and find the best product for this application.
I will keep you posted with this....maybe I can work up a "how to do it" project and pass it along to others.
Thank you ALL again.....this gets my excitement levels back up again. I was getting stale using the old methods....time to step out and try something new.
Jackson
Posted by Kelly Thorson (Member # 2958) on :
I'm in the process of airbrushing some copper maple leaves on a dibond sign. I'm using Auto Air paints - it's a happy place here today, I'm really enjoying it! There is a product called Patio Paint by Deco Art. It's made for concrete, terra cotta and wood. I've used it on primed HDU sucessfully. I have the Honest Copper on my shop sign and it has held up with virtually no fading for 10 years. Best part is it is about $5 for an 8 oz bottle. I highly recommend them.
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
Modern Masters has a copper paint that holds up very well outdoors. They have both a tarnishing version (that needs to be clear coated) and a non tarnishing one. There are also some cool patina effects that can be done with the tarnishing paint.
Posted by FranCisco Vargas (Member # 145) on :
Before I forget Nova paints makes a Copper paint. although I haven't used it for outdoors, so I couldn't say yes or no on it.
Posted by Alicia B. Jennings (Member # 1272) on :
Okay, here's what I would do. Brush on 1-Shot metallic copper. Airbrush on some 1-Shot clear, lightly. The next day, the very next day, 24 hours later, I brush on three coats of 1-Shot clear at 30 miniute intervals. Airbrushing the clear first keeps you from junking up the little metallic thingys before you brush it on. I'd still hit the high points with a bit of 1-Shot metallic gold or thinned glaze for a better faux finsih. Without a clear coat, it's just not gonna last.
Posted by Jackson Smart (Member # 187) on :
Update on drum project for bent box sign.
I have abandoned the copper paint idea completely. Couldn't get a good product that I would gaurantee past a day in the sun. I am going back to the original concept of making it look like an Elk hide drum with the design carved and then painted in red ochre, black and white. That is the traditional colors of the tribe. The drum (2) is a circle 12" x 1.5" and made of green HDU.
Thanks again for your help...
Jackson
Posted by Preston McCall (Member # 351) on :
I had an old car client want me to repaint and re-interior his '49 Chevy Styleline. He wanted to have it look like a penny, so I used a Martin Senour bright copper automotive acrylic w/hardened enamel. It looked great and I did just run into him, recently. He was still driving his Styleline and other than one scrape on the side, it has held up well. Garaged and never driven in bad weather, it has survived looking very fresh. When? It rolled out in 1981, thirty years ago.
It was stripped down to bare steel and an epoxy primer used, but was not clear coated. Amazing how some materials really do hold up.
Posted by Jeff Wisdom (Member # 6193) on :
OUCH! I painted the top cap of an illuminated sign with 1s copper last fall. I am now worried to see what it will look like this spring.
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