One of our Eagle Scouts is fencing in a cemetery that belonged to our parish since 1852. It is a bit out of the way and no one really knew about it until he mentioned his project. There is a developer in the area building houses and in order to keep the sacred ground protected and not dug up,the cemetery need to be fenced and noted with signage. The fence will be of cedar, unknown what species yet, un-stained, un-painted. I volunteered to make an "historically correct period sign" to mark the cemetery. Usually, I will seal the natural wood for a sign. Is there any better way to protect it without compromising the "authenticity" of the "period look" of the sign? I assume they will be maintaining the fence and their request was to have a sign that will last 50+ years. I giggled and mentioned that only stone would do that and the fence would probably fall apart before the sign!
Posted by Tony Vickio (Member # 2265) on :
Nikki, Ask them to show you one thing they have that is made of wood, natural finish, that has lasted 50 years outside! If they have something.....make it of the same material! Otherwise I would use Redwood (unfinished, carved & gilded)!
Posted by Deri Russell (Member # 119) on :
I don't know Nikki, I generally do not seal a wood sign. Somehow putting sealant on natural wood just doesn't sit right with me. I think they will just be a mess a few years down the road. Kinda like staining a picnic table with oil base. Peeling, cracking, chipping. On the other hand, I just re-painted a cedar sandblasted that I originally did in 1993 with latex paints. Then and now. You could still even tell the rose was red. But I am sure there are others who will beg to differ. Have at it.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Wood will turn grey in the weather but will hold up fine. Redwood, western red cedar, red cypress, red cedar and mahogany are good choices. I prefer redwood. Use only the heartwood; the sapwood will rot much faster.
Posted by Nikki Goral (Member # 7844) on :
Thanks all. I am going to research some period type signs from our area in that time period. We weren't settled that long ago, so it is possible that they "lettered" signs with some of the red clay or lime from the area. It also depends on the type of fence layout they are planning...hopefully it will be "period" as well.
Posted by stein Saether (Member # 430) on :
4 years ago i repainted a wood sign from 1910 Made from red core pine.
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
Nikki,
There are some excellent woods for your project which will last and last.
You may have seen outdoor furniture in parks and around universities which have little or no surface treatment. Oily woods like Teak are a good example. There are several decking materials like Kingwood, a very heavy South American wood, which will stand the worst of weather. Another fine exterior wood is Osage Orange, sometimes known as Boudarch. Down here in Oklahoma it's used for fence posts and will last almost as long as steel posts. Most of the oily woods are very hard and heavy. I love these wondeerful woods. Lets not forget Cypress but it needs more surface protection like Sikkens Log and Siding.
You have lots of good options. I'd love to have this kind of challenge. I know you can do it and it will be a job well done!
[ July 13, 2010, 10:35 PM: Message edited by: Joe Crumley ]
Posted by Nikki Goral (Member # 7844) on :
Thanks Joe! I will see how the fence portion turns out and may change my choice of woods per your recommendations.
Posted by Carl Wood (Member # 1223) on :
Why not try Thompson's Water Seal? Cypress is very long lasting also, would probably last 50+ years. However; after 50 years, they won't know who made it anyway!
Posted by Nikki Goral (Member # 7844) on :
Hopefully I'll still be around in 50 years!!!
Posted by Tom Henningson (Member # 7442) on :
Hi Nikki:
We primarily use western red cedar which we seal with a 50-50 blend of varnish and mineral spirits before giving it 3 or 4 coats of varnish or paint or stain (depending on the design). The varnish we use is made for a local company and is very close to the old Behr Rawhide (before they changed the formula for the worse).
Western red cedar has natural resins that keep it pest and rot resistant. Though the varnish and paint will eventually weather and need refurbishing, the wood will keep for quite a while.
The name of the wood is also miss-leading; it is actually a cypress and not a cedar.
