Iv Have someone who doesnt, or cant have ink used on their awning for some reason. Has anyone ever used vinyl on canvas? How can I achieve this-???heat and rivet brush???
It just needs to be white if that is a factor. I use a Gerber 15" cutter mainly.
Posted by Ray Skaines (Member # 3702) on :
Dwight, from my personal experience there is not a vinyl aggressive enough to adhere to canvas in an outside environment.
Occasionally our boat customers want the name of their boat on their canvas sail cover. We provide a paper pattern for the canvas people to cut out the letters in the same fabric with a contrasting color and sew it on.
R
[ March 30, 2010, 02:10 PM: Message edited by: Ray Skaines ]
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
Dwight,
It is extremely difficult to get vinyl to bond for any length of time. Sunbrella has a marking system that uses heat and pressure to bond cast vinyl film to an awning but it will set you back several thousand dollars.
If the customer just doesn't want ink or paint on his awning because of personal preference, he's going to have to make a decision, does he desire the graphics or not? There's no miracle cure for him other than painting on the awning.
We do plenty of painted Sunbrella awnings and the process is not difficult. I have posted our steps here before. I'll pop them into an email for you.
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
I'm wondering if the iron-on vinyl might work? Is the awning already installed, or can it be easily taken down?
Might be worth making a few phone calls or doing some 'googling'. Fellers sells it as 'Fibron', Gerber used to call theirs 'HTF'....check around....there are others.
These materials are used on sporting equipment and clothing. I didn't really see anything about how long they'd hold up outdoors. Otherwise, you're in trouble, unless you paint it.
[ March 30, 2010, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: Dale Feicke ]
Posted by Tim Barrow (Member # 576) on :
Other than sewing the vinyl on I don't see how it could be an option,...when I worked at an awning company's sign division here back in the late 90's we tried everything under the sun to cut production costs and vinyl mask and ink was the best we could come up with.
The primary problem we had with sunbrella is that it is treated with 3m scotchguard at the factory to prevent bird droppings and dirt from staining it,..It made the process of painting with tiecoat primer a real pita,as the tiecoat beaded up and didn't want to stick,..vinyl ink was the only thing we could find that didn't react to the treatment,and provide any kind of permanent results with out any drawbacks. Sell the client on vinyl ink,..it is basically vinyl in a liquid state,....
[ March 30, 2010, 01:03 PM: Message edited by: Tim Barrow ]
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
I agree with everything posted above, and have done the hand painting but with Naz-Dar PX series ink, which is designed for textiles & designed to retain the slight degree of flexibility required for an awning.
One last resort option to you could cut on your cutter, and which is not a miracle solution, but the best this close, that is more likely to meet the landlords requirement, while being somewhat effective, though not as long term durable as most vinyl jobs... Bainbridge sail cloth, sold under names like fab-tac and dac-tac (for dacron) this stuff has extreme adhesives on it, & a cloth face, not vinyl. Spandex (Clarke Systems) is one converter that I've bought 15" punched rolls from before.
(I also have a bunch of unpunched 48" white if you needed a bunch & couldn't find it)
Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
Isn't there a material called Dac-ease (or something like that) that is designed to by cut by plotters and applied to Sunbrella?
Posted by DianeBalch (Member # 1301) on :
Go to Stahls.com. They have various materials you cut on your plotter and heat press on. If you can't take down the awning, and use a heat press you can heat press it on with an iron (set on the highest setting and using parchment paper or get the teflon sheet or kraft paper from Stahls.
The stuff from Stahls (probably use thermofilm or some of the sports material. You have to cut it in reverse. Weed away what you don't want, . The thermofilm has a sticky back so you can lay it where you need it. If you use one of the products that doesn't have a sticky back, then lightly spray some spray adhesive on the back of the letters and press in place. If you can't take down the awning, Have someone hold a piece of wood or wooden cutting board on the back side of the awning - use it as a hard surface to heat press the letters on with an iron. (make sure you use a piece of parchment paper or the kraft paper or teflon sheet between the lettering and the iron. Press the iron against the lettering for 6-14 seconds, lift iron and move to another spot, overlaping your pressing. Some of the material- you peel off the carrier while it is hot, others when it is cool, press times are 6-14 seconds- READ THE DIRECTIONS>.
Stahls products can only be used in friction fed vinyl cutters, You can buy it in 1 yard, 5 yard, 10 yard or 25 yard rolls (15", 20", 24" widths_ Use a blade like you might use on sandblast or setting for intermediate or metallic vinyls.
Diane
Posted by Frank Smith (Member # 146) on :
Hi Dwight and welcome-
With all due respect to all of the above, I do it the easy way: I use Fabricbrite from Creative Banner. No heat necessary .
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