hey guys, I just ran out to but some 3/16" clear acrylic for some second surface signs I need to make tomorrow & the material I was offered was all warpy!! :omg:
I've not seen such crap, but I guess I'm used to cast acrylic & didn't know this supplier had quoted me an inferior product, extruded acrylic (I actually never knew about it even)
Anyway, they had Lexan & it was nice and flat so I bought it.
One of my signs is covering a door & there is a 2-1/2" diameter lock I need to rout a hole for, plus several of these signs are where someone could accidently run there finger along the edge, & get cut, so I wanted to run a conic bit around the perimeter of each blank & then cut through with an endmill to give a nice beveled edge...
But, I've never cut Lexan on my router!!
...and the fist time I tried cutting it on my panel saw ...well, you don't wanna know... although I did buy a new blade & now that's not a problem... but it does lead me to wonder what kind of learning curve may be waiting for me now...
So, random ideas are great, but I really hope someone has done this & can confirm what differences I might want to consider regarding the tool, or feeds & speeds.
...oh yeah, I was also hoping to run a test tonight :omg:
Posted by Brian Ooms (Member # 487) on July 28, 2009 11:47 PM:
I have cut it with a rotozip with some success Never tried to rout it before.
I am curious about your router since I am starting to build one. Is your manufactured or did you build it?
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on July 28, 2009 11:49 PM:
Mine is a Multicam 3000 series.
Posted by Lori Wilcox (Member # 8042) on July 28, 2009 11:50 PM:
Doug, did you have a shard of Lexan fly through the air and put a hole in the opposing wall? I know what you mean on the panel saw - I believe it's due to the curve in the Lexan and the resistance against the blade. Scary!
Use a regular router for the edges? Straight cuts are easily done with a circular saw - put a 2x4 under and in away from the edge, draw a line on Lexan with a marker for the blade to follow.
Posted by Brian Ooms (Member # 487) on July 29, 2009 12:03 AM:
I use masking tape on the area I am going to cut, and I use a 60 Tooth carbide blade in my wormdrive saw..
the tape (I hope) will help prevent it from shattering. Set the depth on the saw just barely enough to cut through the lexan, dont leave it deep enough to cut through a 2x4.
Posted by jack wills (Member # 521) on July 29, 2009 01:09 AM:
Doug, If you can...put two layers of transfer tape. covering the area to cut. This will create a barrier that will absorb the heat from the cutter being transfered by the transfer tape. Hopefully there will be less gallding (heat) from the cut. When cutting with a table saw as well, the line where you cut can be covered with masking tape to relieve the heat from the saw blade. Also you can rub the line to be cut (on the Tape) with a dry bar soap. This will act as a lubricant and add to the cooling effect.
Try it on an experimental piece first....
Jack
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on July 29, 2009 04:17 AM:
interesting sawblade tricks everyone! Yes, I had Lexan shrapnel flying around at very high speeds that one eventful day...
as far as today goes, 100 inches per minute, 18000 spindle with a 1/4" endmil up-sprial & set for 3 passes (.85" ea. on a 1/4" think test piece)
All went well. Thanks!
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on July 29, 2009 05:50 AM:
Doug,
Yesterday we finished cuting a bunch of 6" letters from 1/2" lexan. I believe the whole job took four 4'X8' sheets. After running chip load test we were off and running. This stuff is a breeze to route. I used a Belin, up spiral, O flute, two passed at 14000 with a cutting speed of 2"a second.
I can't imagine having a problem with this material. It's so easy to cut.
Joe www.normansignco.com Even a second
Posted by TJ Duvall (Member # 3133) on July 29, 2009 05:53 AM:
Hey Doug, I cut acrylic all the time. I use 60 inches per minute, with 19000 rpm. I use a single flute upcut Onsrud bit. (1/4" part # 63-725, 1/8" part# is 63-712.) With the 1/4" I can cut 1/2" acrylic with 1 pass. Same with the 1/8" bit with some setting adjustments. I also sometimes use a finish cut to make the cut even better.
The bit does make a big difference!!
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on July 29, 2009 06:04 AM:
TJ,
Acrylic and Polycarb are different materials. Consequently they cut at different feeds and speeds.
Like you say, the proper bit makes all the difference. I like the Onsrud O flute also but the Belin is, in my opinion, a much higher class product. I've tried both.
A clean up pass of .020 works better on plex. Lexan is so soft it doesn't shear with as bright an edge.
I stay away from Lexan because it scratches so esily, but it doesn't split and crack like plex.
Joe www.normansignco.com Posted by Dennis Raap (Member # 3632) on July 29, 2009 07:49 AM:
Thanks guys! (neat tool Dennis... I don't want to use the oil in my mister until I really need to make that kind of mess)
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on July 30, 2009 05:35 AM:
Doug,
Dennis isn't suggesting you use any oil!
The Vortex tube uses the process of seperating hot air, from cold air, which is generated when the air is forced through a narrow orfice. The net effect is ice cold, dry air coming from one end of he tube. NO OIL!
It's not necessary to cool down the bit on this project with the right bit. But Dennis is correct, a vortex tube is a darn good product. We use ours on dense heavy materials like Extira. I bought it to use on aluminum but found out the Belin O flutes don't need any cooling.
Joe www.normansignco.com Posted by Ted Turner (Member # 2799) on July 31, 2009 04:21 AM:
Hey Doug- We run two MC 3000's all day. We don't cool with any thing on any of the plastics, feed and speed rates for acrylic and poly carbonate are the same. If you like I can get you specific rates and forward our settings to you. Oh yeah, thanks for the killer coffee in Pontiac!