Is black PVC prone to absorb enough heat to warp out in the sun? If I used 3/4" black PVC to build a 6', animated chimpanzee? Actually, only the chimp's arm would wave and would be "free and unsupported". There would be actually two "chimp" cutout panels with an internal frame, housing a gear motor. Would 1/2" even be thick enough? Or would you use another material besides PVC?
Posted by Anne McDonald (Member # 6842) on :
We had 20mm (almost an inch) white pvc that had been covered with navy blue vinyl warp here so I'd be avoiding PVC if I were you What about aluminium composite? We've had heaps of success with black ACM & ACP in sunny spots.
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
I am one of those that believe PVC is an indoor material!
Why not use a thick aluminum? At least you won't have to worry about warping or rust!
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
That would probably be better. But when I think about cutting all that with a sabresaw, I break out in a cold sweat.
How well does it cut on a routertable?
Posted by Tony McDonald (Member # 1158) on :
would dibond work? it comes in black. and maybe some 1" square tube for stiffeners.
Posted by Sam Staffan (Member # 4552) on :
Without knowing the specs, I would be looking at 1/2" Extira with frame supports.
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
I'm with Tony...Dibond
Posted by Jane Diaz (Member # 595) on :
Yes, black PVC WILL warp in the sun. Ask me how I know!! Posted by Jon Jantz (Member # 6137) on :
Wayne, I left a 3/16" 4'x8' black piece of PVC out in the hot sun the other day for about an hour, and when I came back it was totally unusable. It had wrinkled up like a Pensacola Beach old lady.
After seeing that, I'd think there would be problems with the thicker stuff as well in our sun and heat.
Posted by Russ McMullin (Member # 5617) on :
It seems like even dibond could warp if the plastic layer got hot enough.
Posted by Paul Luszcz (Member # 4042) on :
I've mentioned this before, but it's clear that most of us don't realize PVC is available as an interior or exterior grade product. Different brands have different names for them. For example, Komerling use Komatex for the interior product and Komacel for the exterior. Other brands have similar naming distinctions.
We use tons of exterior grade PVC and have never had a problem with any. It is only available in white and must be painted. We use two part Matthews Acrylic Urethane.
For black we buy white and paint it black. The black material available is all interior grade and will absorb heat and expand, contract, warp etc. Use this product outside at your own risk.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Thanks for the info, everyone.
Looks like black interior PVC is out. This project has been on the back burner for about 4 years. I may just carve it out of HDU as originally planned... unless works picks up and it gets busy again.
Posted by Cody Reich (Member # 8052) on :
Anyone have success using 1/4" to 1/2" PVC for smaller letters 4" tall for an outside side? They would be glued flat to a board and painted to help stop fading.
Posted by Anne McDonald (Member # 6842) on :
Something that size should be fine Cody, use something like gorilla grip or no more nails to "glue" it as they have some give and will allow for expansion in the sun. I've done lots of signs with smaller router cut PVC letters outside and they hold up well.
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
Thanks Paul,
I hadn't seen your post earlier about the different grades of PVC. Excellent information.
It's true the black PVC is very unstable in 1/2". Thats the only thickness we've used. I was looking at some today which we left out behind our shop. It's been there for about a year and it's not holding up well. Really warped.
Extira is a consideration. HDU might work depending on the installation method. HDU gets brittle with time and will for sure warp if not coated both sides with the same black. I'd bet it would pop right off the building over time.