After the Looney Letterhead meet ended, Ron Costa and I did a nice job on a pickup truck for the folks who took care of all are trash removal. But...
It is a trash truck after all. Sadly, there was an event that left a splattering of...brace yourself...SHELLAC! All over the cab, roof and one door.
The makeover of the graphics is a given, but does anyone know how the heck to get shellac off of a clear coated truck? I'm leery of trying lacquer thinner for fear of ruining the clear.
Truck's a 2004 Dodge,factory clear.
I get all the fun ones....*sigh* Rapid
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Rapid...alcohol!
Isopropyl, Methyl or denatured Ethanol will do it.
Posted by stein Saether (Member # 430) on :
Etanol is best. the others have a VERY unpleasant smell and are poisonious too.
And dont drive after breathing;)
Posted by John Byrd (Member # 825) on :
Yep. Denatured Alcohol is what I use.
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Ray..if it is factory clearcoat, lacquer thinner won't bother it at all. Heck, you could even use acetone and it won't bother the clearcoat.
BUT, what you need is a solvent that is slow to evaporate, so that it can soften the shellac. Don't worry, other than sandpaper or a grinder, nothing is going to hurt the original clearcoat.
Posted by Dale Flewelling (Member # 2577) on :
Hi Ray, Dave is right, but in warmer temps laquer thinner can dry a litte quick. I find using DT870 or DT895 reducer for base coats from PPG works pretty comfy'...good luck man!!!
Posted by Russ McMullin (Member # 5617) on :
alcohol is the solvent for shellac
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
second advice given for dt reducer. this stuff will get stains off coroplast. factory clearcoat is tuff stuff and unless you wet a towel with laquer thinner and leave it on overnite nothing is going to happen to the clearcoat
also dt can be used to reduce any enamel based paint good to have around
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
in my experiences, i always start with the LEAST VOLITILE CHEMICAL.......then proceed up as needed. sorta like hammers, if your gona pound a brad nail, no sence usin a 10 POUND SLEDGE HAMMER))))) I would try the ALCOHOL FIRST.......then if need be use A/E REDUCER, THEN THE LACQURE THINNER.
Posted by Dale Flewelling (Member # 2577) on :
Old Paint...best dam advice I've heard yet!!!
Posted by Preston McCall (Member # 351) on :
Shellac is made from the resin of insects, amazingly and is only cut with alcohol. The 'Lac' in it and in Lacquer comes from this resin which was originally found on Lac trees, which are like Russian Olive trees that ooze sap that bugs would get stuck in. They would process the sap into "Lac" and eventually SHELL-Lac was invented. It is the stuff they use on leather to make patent shoes...flexible and a good gloss. Lac thin, enamel reducer, min spts, VM&P, or water will not affect it. If it is dry, I doubt even if you can cut it back with alcohol (denatured). Watch out using wood alcohol as it will blind you. You might try pouring on some on a rag and leaving it on the area a bit, but keep looking at it, to make sure it is not affecting the substrate finish? Good luck.
Think that one was an odd story, look up the history on Damar Varnish! and about VM&P? Varnish Makers and Painters Naptha.
Posted by stein Saether (Member # 430) on :
and keep matches away;)
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Thanks, gang. We'll give the alcohol a shot.
...and yeah, Dale, I agree.
Good advice, OP. That's one of those little rules that seems to get forgotten from time to time. Thanks for the reminder. Rapid
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
Ray... Shellac, being an interior product, which has been given to us by a long line of history, is indeed, a very hard substance.
I don't know about all the chemicals, but I do believe hot water will make it removeable, especially if it can soak for awhile. For that matter, I guess any water would...but the warmer the better.
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