Have a customer wanting 4 holders made that a 36"x42" map can be slid down in.... needs the front to be able to be written on with dry erase markers.... this is to be fastened to the wall.
What would be the best substrate to use for this? Would dry erase write or erase better off acrylic or lexan better?
Here's an exploded view of what I proposed.... any better ideas?
Posted by Graham Parsons (Member # 1129) on :
Jon,
Don't know what the equiv. is for you, but we use plain "Barkerboard". It's the plain (untextured and un-patterned) version of that 'tile-on-sheet' they sell for bathroom walls. Works perfectly for dry erase - we get ours at the local hardware store.
Posted by Bill Lynch (Member # 3815) on :
We have a white acrylic "Jobs board" that works fine, I imagine clear acrylic would be about the same. Whenever I do a project like this I always give a disclaimer that any type of non standard dry erase application may not hold up well and may need replacing.
Posted by Gary Boros (Member # 8487) on :
I've got to think that any clear product used the way you describe will scratch and wear pretty quickly, maybe you could use a clear temporary adhesive vinyl over it or static cling. Also, you would need to test it out but, I suspect that the markers on the clear material will be much like trying to print on clear material, the marker ink is most likely not very opaque.
Posted by R T Thomas (Member # 355) on :
I did some of these for my cousin's business. I printed the maps on inkjet vinyl and laminated them down to PVC. The lamination allows them dry erase over the maps with no problem. I just told them to always wipe them down with a good cleaner once in a while to prevent build-up. So far, so good, and they've been using them now for at least 6 months.
Posted by Dawud Shaheed (Member # 5719) on :
I used acrylic for a dry erase project before and it doesn't work very well. It writes on ok, but it doesn't come off well without wetting it.
I think that "Barkerboard", if it's the same stuff I'm thinking of, with the dark brown back will work better than the acrylic we used for lighted faces.
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Try Rapid Tac for the "ultimate cleaner" it really works well for cleaning these dry erase boards. Heck, buy some 4oz. bottles and sell to the customer!
Roger
[ March 07, 2009, 12:19 AM: Message edited by: roger bailey ]
Posted by Jon Jantz (Member # 6137) on :
Thanks for the input, guys....
RT, I thought of that and asked them if they would have the same map in permanently, and they said they'd be swapping them out from time to time. So it pretty much has to be a clear substrate that the map can slide in behind...
Graham, is this 'Barkerboard' material available in clear?
After a little research, I do see they make a clear vinyl that is designed to be written on by dry erase markers.... maybe I'll order a sample of it and see if it improves anything... I could put a coating of it over the acrylic.
Great idea, Roger. I'll tell them... they have a bunch of other dry erase boards in the place and maybe I can get them to buy RT through me.... I have a couple of the small sample bottles from the Dixie meet.... maybe I can get them hooked by giving them those...
Plain clear acrylic sheet works best.. Don't use Lexon it scratches to easily.
Have a similar set-up to what you are describing in a pub for Menu specials with their muted logo and headings as a background.
They have been changing it daily for past five years with proper pens, and a damp cloth.
PS: I reversed the headings and panel outlines in vinyl letterng on the inside of the acrylic so the was no build up of gunk when they wiped the face off. "Chef's Specal" "Soup of the day" etc.
[ March 07, 2009, 08:52 AM: Message edited by: Jon Butterworth ]
Posted by Jane Diaz (Member # 595) on :
We did a Signcade sign for the entry of a car dealership. They wanted a portion of it that you could change up with messages. We used the dry erase clear vinyl (from Fellers) and it lasted about 4 years. They just recently brought it back as it was showing some wear and scratches and we just ripped the old clear & white vinyl off and replaced it with new. Easy fix!
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Just one heads-up Jon... Unless you have high ceilings where these are to be installed, you may want to entertain sliding them in from the side. Guess how I know
Havin' fun,
Checkers
Posted by Ben Diaz (Member # 7319) on :
If you do go the way of the dry erase clear, be very careful when applying the vinyl as those clears have a tendency to scratch easily. We have used cloth squeegees in the past or you can transfer tape it to protect the surface at least until it is down.
Posted by Theresa Hoying (Member # 7330) on :
Jon,
I do a ton of custom dry erase products here and I was going to suggest you try the clear dry erase material. I don't know what type you are using, but I have a clear laminating dry erase material here.
Ben is right, it does scratch easy, so if you don't have a cold laminator, I use one of those heavy duty blue shop paper towels and spray the top of the vinyl down with windex, or soapy water. The blue towell over a squeegee eliminates the scratching because it absorbs the fluid and it glides right along.
Hope this helps. I am sure you will get it just right!
T
Posted by Jon Jantz (Member # 6137) on :
Thanks, Jon-Jane-Ben-Theresa.... I'm going just with the clear acrylic (since that's how they ordered it) and I'm going to offer that I will add the dry-erase film for an additional cost, if they want.
And Checkers, that did occur to me... plus the fact that it would be hard to get the map back out, so I've redesigned it to slide in from the side...
Thanks again, all.
Posted by Tony McDonald (Member # 1158) on :
Hey Jon,
If the maps are 36 x 42, wouldn't your overall size need to be a bit larger due to the spacers. Right now if the spacers are an inch wide, you could only get a 34 x 40 map inside...right?
Just checkin'
Posted by Jon Jantz (Member # 6137) on :
Good observation, Tony.
I made one and delivered it to the customer and they tried it out and it works great... I ended up letting the height be 38" inside.... overall 42" high with 2" spacers. I left the width the full 48" so it would have a factory edge on each side.
They loved it and want the rest of them ASAP, so working on them now.
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