I have started using more and More PvC recently on jobs due to Cost restraints and I just love how it Routs. But I do have a few questions.
1. What is the trick to sanding this stuff.. It seams when we try to sand it by hand it goes no where except plugging up the sandpaper.. (It fine when I use my bandsaw sander just leaves a little flash that I can snap off.
2. Is there anything better then Silicone to glue letters on. I use regular PvC Cement to glue it to itself and that works great but I have had a few issues with the letters falling off with DAP Silicone. I started Taking a Knife and Cross Hatching the back to help the glue Bite or pinning it but was curious if there was anything better.
3. When painting are you priming it. It seams to love straight paint without any primer but I Don't feel like getting any surprises down the road.
Thanks Bill
Posted by Ron Percell (Member # 399) on :
Not sure about about your sanding needs, but I've used heated tools to smooth edges.
I use "100% pure silocone by G.E." with foam double backed tape for installation.
On 1/4" or thicker PVC you may drill post hole and insert threaded rod.
Only use PVC for interior projects such as menus
Noe primer, one shot with hardener sprayed or Krylon.
Good Luck
Posted by Jean Shimp (Member # 198) on :
PVC is our most used substrate. We make cut out letters, use it for sign faces and also make routed signs with it. We only buy white or black (1/2" thick)and paint it with acrylic latex house paint. Scuff the surface lightly and spray or roll the finish coat, no primer. The cut edges are rough. If you want a smooth edge, use a different substrate or be prepared to spend a lot of time priming and sanding and painting the PVC edges. Most of our sign are exterior. For gluing, abrade the back side and use silicone adhesive.
Posted by Curtis hammond (Member # 2170) on :
Weldon.. None better. Several flavors but they all work perfect. I just did a wall logo with pvc and used weld on #16. Used scraps for the hanger,, It bonds so well you will destroy the entire panel before it comes apart.
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
I use alot of PVC. after routing i sand mine with a jitterbig sander on top lever and a wire sheels for the routed lettering. not placing alot of pressure on the wheel it will cut the pvc.
i prime the whole panel or letters with epoxy primer and come back with latex. i also shoot a light coat of primer on the back and install with silicone and i have not had a problem yet. PVC is awesome to owrk with it routes beautifully and looks great inside or out
Posted by Neil D. Butler (Member # 661) on :
Bulldog Grip! Along with double sided mounting tape, I'm not too sure of the type but I believe it's pl premium. The gold color one.
Posted by Gene Golden (Member # 3934) on :
I use a tool called a "Microplane". I stole it from my wife's kitchen. It's used as a grater for cheese, etc. It works unbelievably well. I also use those "Surform Shaver" rasps with the very sharp teeth - curved, flat, and round.
At Lowe's or Home Depot, buy the vinyl fence cements to attach pieces. It is a white color.
Depending on the wall, I would use mounting tape for the initial hold, or use studs for more permanent outdoor uses.
Paint with Krylon if spraying. Use Ronan AquaCote directly onto the PVC if rolling or brushing.
Posted by Henry Barker (Member # 174) on :
Hi there Bill,
We use PVC outdoors we like 3/4" and use it for thicker letters mounted on aluminium sheets, there we screw it together from the back, had no problems outdoors with climate, we use pvc glue otherwise.
It routs really well as you say, here are a couple of pics using textures in Enroute.
its a cheaper alternative to hdu for some applications.
We make lots of signs like this with 3/4 19mm pvc mounted on 2mm aluminium.
[ November 10, 2008, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: Henry Barker ]
