I'm thinking of buying a 2nd plotter, to dedicate to cutting sandmask. Those of you who blast a lot......... what do you recommend? I have an older Ioline that works fine, but there's always distortions in the mask, which I blame upon the plotter. For instance, concentric shapes will turn perhaps half a degree each. I can't cut Anchor with it at all. Correcting these distortions is time consuming, & I'm trying to gain efficiency . Roland would be my immediate preference, since I'm friends with a Roland distributor, but would like to hear your thoughts. BTW we use mostly Hartco 425.
Posted by Denny Smith (Member # 6806) on :
We cut a lot of 425 as well and I have been really happy with my Graphtec.
Posted by Sonny Franks (Member # 588) on :
If it will be dedicated to blast stencil, I'd recommend a traction feed unit........
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
I user a Graphtec as well, but do have a series of work-arounds to get past some obstacles. We primarily cut Anchor 155 or 116. I have not found the Hartco to hold up to my blasting pressures.
Posted by Deri Russell (Member # 119) on :
Have a graphtec Rodger. And I use Anchor 116 or 117 depending on what substrate I'm blasting. The more aggresive for stone.
Posted by Pete Payne (Member # 344) on :
we sell a lot of stencil to acme woodworks and they are still using an old roland that they've had for years, didn't get to talk to you much old man, hope to see you soon!
Posted by Jake Lyman (Member # 3280) on :
Allen Datagraph makes a plotter that made for that. It will also cut vinyl but it is designed around sandblast mask.
Posted by Bill Lynch (Member # 3815) on :
Our old 15" Gerber tractor plotter(super sprint) works great with blast stencil.
Posted by Bobbie Rochow (Member # 3341) on :
I use my Anagraph Express to cut my #125 stencil. I take it off the stand & set it on the floor so the heavy mask isn't hard on the rollers feeding it. But, I do have distortions if the mask is a long piece.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
quote:Originally posted by Rodger MacMunn: ....I have an older Ioline that works fine, but there's always distortions in the mask, which I blame upon the plotter. For instance, concentric shapes will turn perhaps half a degree each. I can't cut Anchor with it at all.....
Rodger, My Ioline is about 12 years old now and still works great. I only use Anchor #153(for pre-painted sustrates) or #155 stencil(bare substrates). Sandblasted signs are my specialty.
Are you using all of these steps? 1.Cut the amount of stencil for the panel off the roll...add 1.5" to allow for the pinch wheels. 2. With a wet cloth or paper towel, clean the white powder off the front of stencil and the bare mylar "tabs" on both sides. 3. Clean the rubber pinch wheels with isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip. 4. Make sure the grit shaft is clean. 5. Set up your plotter, make sure your stencil is tracking straight. 6.Set your plot software so that the panel length is about 12" or so. By setting the short panel length, your plotter will cut one section at a time instead of trying to cut those perimeter/border cuts in one continuous loop, this causes it to run off and drasticly lose accuracy.
[ October 03, 2007, 11:46 AM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
If buying a dedicated plotter for sandblast I would get a Summa Tangential Their T series. The blade actually rotates to the cut and gives you very clean cut corners in thick material.
One trick we came up with on using our old Drag Knife D610 to eliminate distortions is to cut twice. In your plotter setup in your software set your Blade End point to end at the beginning Origin. Then set your Cut pressure to about 2/3 of what you would normally cut the rubber at a single pass. That way with less pressure you don't get the distortion. Example the Settings on Our D610 are Cut Speed 5ips @ 250 Grams and we can cut through the stencil even with a 30 degree blade.
Added.. We use the Hartco 425.
[ October 03, 2007, 12:22 PM: Message edited by: William DeBekker ]
Posted by Rodger MacMunn (Member # 4316) on :
Thanks, everyone. Wayne, I split the plot to reduce the distortions but still, I'm going to need to add another plotter soon anyway. I've never figured out the software fully (Casmate - I've only had it 12 years) so don't know how to get the stop/start spot in the same place - it always jogs .25" up & over, so it adds a lot of time. Tried cutting Anchor once - it was stretching & carrying on like a diesel-burner puttin' on pantyhose!
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
My software doesn't leave any space when cutting panel segments. It cuts one segment, then goes back to the exact point it left off.
I use 24lb pinch wheels on the mylar strip at each side and two 8 lb pinch wheels in the middle. The light pinch wheels won't mash the stencil down. You can get them from Ioline.
After cutting your stencil, lay it out on the work table and apply application tape. It shouldn't stretch at all. Doesn't for me.
Posted by Rodger MacMunn (Member # 4316) on :
Thanks Wayne - the people I bought my Ioline from no longer sell them - I wasn't aware you could get extra pinch-wheels. I asked for extra weights several years ago & they didn't have any, so I put together a loaded brass fitting that sits on top of the cylinder to complement the 150 grams I have. Works great - don't look so spiffy......... You probably can set that software to do as you do, but I can't figure it out, & apparently there's no point in calling Cas-mate.
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
Blasting HDU:
Yesterday I finished up five, 15lb. panels which were masked with standard intermediate vinyl. I used a single layer for these and do believe I could have blasted all the way through the 1.5" material.
My set up: I made a 10' wide sandblast booth a couple of years ago. The type where you stand outside. The grain frame now has a home.
I gave these panels a fairly deep blast. I kept my nozel about a foot away from the HDU, and the vinyl held up very well. It's fairly easy to tell when the vinyl is wearing out, it starts to bubble. I think I could have blasted all the way through. I'm using 60psi with 185 CFM. The job finished up in less than 30 minutes.
I have a Gerber HS Plus that I paid 1K to upgrade and it just sits there. It should go up on for sale. For redwood, I use EZ CNC and cut the mask right on the panel. It's cheaper that way since there's no need for puched mask or transfer tapes.
When I figure out this forums photo posting secrets I have a go at that. The Shopbot froum has me spoiled. Much easier!
