That is where I get my flex face signs.
Posted by Mike South (Member # 4523) on :
Cracking will not be a problem. Unless it blows out. Very likely would in a heavy wind...
Flex Face Retro Fit Kit From ABC Sign Products is the way to go.
However... You can do rigid (polycarbonate or lexan) face. You must do a couple of things. You also need to consider service for the sign.
I have serviced signs for over 10 years. It sucks to have to slide large flat faces to change bulbs or ballast. Exception is if it is an access cabinet. You remove access panels to change bulbs/ballast. Or it has a retainer system that is hinged.
DO NOT put in a flat face of that size without doing one of the following...
You need a sign cabinet that will accept a hanger bar on the face. A hanger bar is simple strip of 1/2"-1.5" wide of poly glued or pop-rivotted to the face. It should run almost the entire lenght of your sign face on the long 12' sides. You may need to stack a few strips on top of the other. Look at the retainer on the sign cabinet to see how far it needs to stick out. Some hanger bars go on the front of the face, some on the back.
Confused Yet? The other option is to don't worry about the hanger bar. You will have to run self-tapping screws through the front of the ratainer into the face(POLYCARBONATE/LEXAN ONLY) on the top and bottom. Spaced at about 12" apart. This in not the most appealing. But it does work.
One more thing you need to consider. If the cabinet had an existing pan face. Lamps are spaced further apart. If you convert to flat face then youR lamp space is to far apart to evenly illuminate the face. Your flat face is closer to the lamps, not giving the light a chance to spread out. Creating what we call hot spots. There is a simple formula for determining whether or not you will have hot spots or not.
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
if it is an existing sign go with pan face. evn at this size they are not that heavy and are durable. if this is a new cabinet try flex face. you can get them already printed and less expensive
Posted by Mike South (Member # 4523) on :
Even a pan face that size should have hanger bars. So you'll still being putting that work into it.
Pan faces can be expensive. Flex Face is much better system and can be affordable.
Posted by Michael R. Bendel (Member # 5847) on :
Spot on Mike... Flex face for a new cabinet.
I would replace with what they have if it's an existing cabinet.
I guarantee this thing wasn't flat faced. It'd been on the ground long ago.
!!Flex for new or replace what's there for existing cabinet.
Good luck Eric.
Posted by mike meyer (Member # 542) on :
Mike South knows what he is talking about...
The "HANGER BAR" is a MUST... I have done signs that big WITHOUT a hanger bar, and I have learned the HARD WAY...Flex face is more maintenance and seems to discolor fast...a real pain to change bulbs behind as well.....I'd opt for the pan faces with hanger bar....
Posted by Mike South (Member # 4523) on :
Mike, Have you seen the retro fit flex face systems from ABC sign products. I think miliken industries has something like it also. It lets you put hinges on the top. The entire face and retainer hinges out. Great for service. They are great for going on old signs cabinets. Simple to install. Will cost more than getting new pans. But a worthy upgrade if customer will spring for extra cost.
I've done lots of flex face. I haven't seen discolor. Always used coley brite and 3m panaflex. I have noticed trans vinyl does seem to have a little peelling around 5-6 years.
I always disliked putting polycarbonate in signs because it always turns yellow. Even the so called none yellowing polycarbonate (white). Don't know if clear is any better.
Posted by Brad Ferguson (Member # 33) on :
Eric,
Retrofitting a hinged flexible face is my first choice, too. But a 6x12 is not too large for a good plastic face installation. I believe you improve your chances by using pans. They are more rigid at the edges. But hanging bars are a must, as Mike S. said. You may have to fab new retainers if there weren't hanging bars before. But that should be part of the job. Also, I would put a hanging bar at top AND bottom, not just top. He also mentioned screws. I've never done it, but I've seen a lot of guys put a screw in each corner, all the way through retainer, plastic and angle, when the faces were polycarbonate.
If you retrofit for flexible faces, it's a job best done in the shop, though we have done them in the field. If you can't bring the sign in, that's a good argument for going back with plastic. ............
RE: yellowing of polycarbonate. I was told once by a chemist that not all polycarbonates are created equal. He said that while the ingredients may not vary, quality control does, and that the cheaper brands suffer in that area. He was saying specifically that Lexan was a better made product. I never did find out where he got his information.
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