I am looking for any suggestions as to how to get a rigid mounting system that is easily field assembled. I will be mounting a dimensional Precision Board sign between two 6"x6" vinyl posts.The way I have designed the sign, I would like the sign to come against the posts flush if possible. very small standoffs would be acceptable if you could show how they would be constructed. I am trying to find a field tested way of doing this that will be both easy, and STRONG.
Sure could use some help.
Thank You in advance for suggestions.
Regards, Bob C.
[ July 18, 2007, 09:32 AM: Message edited by: Robert Cole ]
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
Bob, when I did it, I used Liquid nails trowled out over a primed edge-sealed ˝" exterior plywood sheet cut a bit bigger than the SignFoam, with the SignFoam adhered to that. Probably a real Jerry-Rigger but it has held up since 2000 with nary a problem. (double-faced, installed into a corresponding groove of 2 vertical 4x4s then with a 2" molding on the sides) I am by no means a sign installer, just a sign painter. The client installed it as per my instructions. I think I would have used Alumalite to make the sandwich filler nowadays. Love....Jill
Posted by Bill Lynch (Member # 3815) on :
Single or double face? How big is the sign? How thick is it?
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
Two, 1" or wider, galvinized steel straps routed into the sides of the sign so they are flush. Glue and screw into the sign. Make the straps about 3" longer (top and bottom) than the sign ends. Drill and counter sink 2 screw holes in the strap extensions. Attach to posts.
joe,
Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
[ July 18, 2007, 10:13 AM: Message edited by: Joe Cieslowski ]
Posted by Robert Cole (Member # 477) on :
Jill, Thanks.
Bill, The sign will be D.F. carved and gilded w/ 23kt. gold 3'x5' constructed of (3) 1.5" thick pieces sandwiched together to create depth. The center piece will be about 2" larger all the way around than the pieces that will be applied on top for depth.
Thanks, Bob C.
Posted by Amy Brown (Member # 1963) on :
Bob,
We usually take a pipe (PVC or metal) glued into the center of the sheets in a routed channel. Then we run threaded rod through the sign and through holes on the posts, bolt with lock washer,washer, nut and cover with decorative caps. We use PT Pine in our posts, not just empty squares.
There is an example on our sites portfolio page. Blake Memorial. Kinda hard to see in that picture but it has the gold caps on the posts. We used three in this one.
[ July 18, 2007, 10:23 AM: Message edited by: Amy Brown ]
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Amy's been spying on me again That's exactly what I do, except I use rectangular tubing. I use 1''x 2'' aluminum tubing, set in routed dados, between two sheets of 1.5'' HDU, all laminated with PB urethane glue.
I'm doing three double sided ones like this right now; One for a dentist's office, another for an orthopedic clinic and another for a surgical center.
[ July 18, 2007, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
Posted by Mike Faig (Member # 6104) on :
Bob, here's one where steel .5" rods were placed into routed grooves on back of panels glued together and then sandblasted. The rods extend into the posts. Posted by Todd Gill (Member # 2569) on :
Amy - That's a great strategy! Thanks for that idea....I'm going to try that on my personal house sign when I finally get to it.
P.S. I liked your website, lot's of nice dimensional stuff - especially like the Troy Building Company sign. Posted by Bill Lynch (Member # 3815) on :
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