I've got a 95 Honda Accord that won't stay started. As long as the key is in position to engage the starter, the engine runs - you can rev it up briefly. If you release the key, the engine dies. I decided it's got to be the ignition switch, because the dash lights are also only on in the start position.
Seems like a simple-enough problem. Remove the screws and pull out the switch. I wish it were that easy. It's trapped between pieces of metal that are either welded, or riveted to the steering column. I got the original part out by reducing it to various pieces. The new part won't go in that way. I was hoping that removal of the old part would show me a better way, but there doesn't seem to be one. It looks like I'll need to grind some of the metal back about 1/8" to make it fit. I guess it's Dremel time.
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
The lock assembly is clamped to the steering column by two shear head bolts. Use a punch to make a dimple in the head of each bolt, then drill the head off the bolt, separate the clamp and remove from steering column
Posted by Joe Golden (Member # 6870) on :
Is the ignition switch a two piece switch, maybe too late for that, but alot of manufacturers have an electrical portion of the switch, and a mechanical portion of the switch. The mechanical portion rarely fails, and if it does, yoru key just gets loose, or it binds, but when the electrical portion fails, vehicle wont run, lights wont work, radio wont play etc etc etc.
But, stop!!!!!!!, if it does not fit, do not grind clearance, you either have the wrong part or a step has been missed.
Did you have to remove the steering wheel to remove the old part, if you did not, and you dont have an air bag, remove the steering wheel and you should find a way to seperate the housing so the replacement switch will fit in. If there is an airbag, I would strongly urge you to seek a repair facility that may have the ability to dis-arm the SRS system and rest it once the swithc is replaced, other wise your SRS light could remain lit or worse, you could see first hand the effects of a deployed are big, and that could hurt if you have a wrench in your hand when it goes off.
Hope this helps.
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
in most cases of what you seem to be having a problem with...IS NOT IN THE KEY ASSY. follow the wires fron the key switch....and you will find another "electrical key switch" wher all the wires come into....this is what is usually replaced.
Posted by Russ McMullin (Member # 5617) on :
I'm not replacing the key assembly. It's the electrical part. The part I bought is identical to the one I removed. The steering wheel doesn't need removing. It wouldn't do any good. There no possible way to remove the old part, or install the new one without making the notch I was planning, or to do what Joey suggested. I guess I would then replace those bolts with regular hex head bolts?
Posted by Dave Shirk (Member # 106) on :
Russ, I've got a deal with my friendly local Mechanic. He doesn't make signs, and I don't fix cars. But, I know you just had to tackle this.
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
Russ, I'm with Dave...take it to a trusty garage. I remember trying to fix an ignition control module once...most parts stores don't take returns on electronics if you have the wrong thing or it wasn't what you needed. Love....Jill
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Hiya Russ, I'm with Jill and Dave too. But finding a trustworthy mechanic is getting more difficult to find these days. However, if you're feeling adventuresome, check these out... http://www.chiltonsonline.com/totalcare.aspx http://www.chiltondiy.com/ Your local library may have hard copies too.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
Russ, glad you made the correct decision as this was taken from a Honda mechanic I spoke with on your behalf.
Posted by Curtis hammond (Member # 2170) on :
POP Rivets
Posted by Don Hulsey (Member # 128) on :
Joey has done told ya the right way. You might be able to figure out a few others, but wouldn't it be easier to just go ahead and do it right now that you know how?
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
I have no idea how to fix it, but any 12 year old car giving me that much grief would be headed to the dealer for a trade in.
Just a thought... Rapid
Posted by Russ McMullin (Member # 5617) on :
Well, after $41.20 out of pocket for the part, and a couple of hours keeping my temper under contol...IT WORKS! I couldn't get the angle on the drill bit to remove the bolts, and I didn't want to tear apart the dash to get it out of the way. I ended up using my dremel to shave down the edge (1/16"x3/4") of some heavy-guage stamped steel. There was just enough room to wrestle the switch into place. There is plenty of metal left (about 4") so I'm not worried about that.
Ray, if I had money, I tell you what I'd do. I'd go downtown and buy a...new car...or two. So, I agree with your advice, but I can't follow it. Posted by Dusty Campbell (Member # 4601) on :
I'm right there with you Russ. I had to change my alternator on my Econoline. I tried every way you could turn that $&*! thing to get it out, sooo I got out the old reciprocating saw. Made things much easier.
Bend to fit. Paint to match.
Glad you got her going.
Edited to add: I didn't need the whole battery tray did I?
[ April 17, 2007, 10:43 PM: Message edited by: Dusty Campbell ]
Posted by jack wills (Member # 521) on :
Dusty,
Yuu Da mann, man.......!
CrazyJack
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
ECONOLINE????????????????damn man that thing is older n you!!!!! 144 c.i.???? cant kill that engine, but aint got enough power to pull itself off a pee pot.
Posted by Harris Kohen (Member # 2139) on :
Gawd I'm glad my full time job is as a mechanic. I can make a decent sign too
PS: Russ to me that would have been a simple job, but on the other hand vectorizing to me is a project. Oh well.
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