Had been using BM Impervex acrylic latex for my MDO jobs and was having trouble getting a consistent finish (spraying).
Thought i'd give Porter a try, and happy I did. It dries quicker, rated to apply down to 35 degrees, and sprays really nicely.
Just my 2 cents.
Posted by Tim Whitcher (Member # 685) on :
I've never liked BM. Never tried Porter. Maybe I will next time I need a latex paint.
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
I would like to know why people are having a hard time getting latex to lay down on a good spray. No matter what brand I use I lay it down good, no penetrol or nothing.
Could it be the guns? the pressure? what are you guys using on this board to spray with?
Posted by Bob Kaschak (Member # 3146) on :
Bruce, are you spraying gloss, satin, or flat?
Peace, Bob
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
it doesnt matter all comes out the same.
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Duhhhhh....Bruce.....Penetrol is for oil base paints! Flotrol is for latex paints!
Posted by Bob Kaschak (Member # 3146) on :
Bruce, what are you spraying with? What kind of pressure? How much thinning? Sanding between coats?
Just curious.
Thanks in advance, Bob
Posted by Eric Houser (Member # 4461) on :
I was spraying gloss in both impervex and porter, and the impervex seemed very finicky. I had a hard time getting the same finish twice. I also had trouble with dark colors looking hazy.
The porter seems more forgiving and the coverage is better.
Again, this is just my opinion, subject to change, and certainly NO expert.
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
I think we have confusinon on here...IM NOT HAVING A PROBLEM SPRAYING LATEX. I was asking why eveyone else is. and Si of course I dont know what penetrol or flowtrol does or does not do.... I have never used either.
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
Bruce, since you are having no problems spraying latex, some here would like to know your procedure...such as what type gun, air pressure, etc.
This could help me and some others avoid the pitfalls of spraying latex.
Posted by Eric Houser (Member # 4461) on :
By trial and error, I'VE ended up at 30psi on a campbell hausfield multi-purpose gun. Much lower and it splatters, go higher and it seems I lose half my paint.
I know some here use HVLP guns, but I havn't gone that route. My concern is nozzle size, lots of different nozzle sizes on HVLP guns, and I don't know which is best.
Any tips are appreciated!
Posted by Bob Kaschak (Member # 3146) on :
Bruce, I understand you are not having problems. Like Raymond said, we are curious how you are getting the good results.
To let you know what I am doing:
HVLP conversion gun. With a 2.2mm cap/needle combo. Thinned with water. Sprayed at max pressure. Spraying gloss latex.
I am getting good results, but am always looking to improve.
Peace, Bob
Posted by Eric Houser (Member # 4461) on :
I tried thinning with water, but ended up with a million bubbles. Paint delivery is probably much different with HVLP though.
Posted by Nancie W. Phillips (Member # 3484) on :
For anyone who has never added flotrol to latex when spraying... it does seem to help.
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
When in the Model Business we use to reduce the new Acrylic Latex paints (I think they were the Badger brand and Tamiya Acrylic) with Denatured Alcohol. I am not sure if the formula is the same for House paints so I would definitely do a test before spraying it on any signs. But I do know I could get great coverage the do the details in oil on top(Weathering and washes)
[ January 30, 2007, 07:17 PM: Message edited by: William DeBekker ]
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
I guess Bruce doesn't want to share his secret with us.
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
Spraying Latex,
For me this has become second nature and I seldom consider or worry about any problems spraying latex. That said, I don't spray much gloss but most other finishes lay down very smooth. Like Bob I use a HVLP. I bought a cheeepie at Harbour Freigh, $65 bucks. I keep another one one the shelf in the box, just in case.
Dilution is allways different, since the last bit at the bottom of an old bucket, is thicker. Also some brands are thicker. You get a Kentucky windgage with this stuff after a while. In a quart mixing can I use about three or four tablespoons of flowtrol and about a 1/8 cup of water. Once strained and in the gun, a quick test. I may add more paint or water which ever is required.
Like Bob, I turn the pattern allmost closed and the pressure up, lets say 90psi. Then I throtle it back and adjust the pattern to get a nice atomized distribution. Most of my work is done flat and that makes the process much less critical. I've never looked, but I bet the PSI is about 70 when I ready to go. Doesn't make much difference because when the pattern and flow is correct you'll know it.
It takes about three coats to get good coverage. Some colors like red and yellow may take more. The first two coars are light and must be allowed to dry very well. I've found latex doesn't cure out in quickly. It can take days, depending on temp and humidity. However most painting is finished in a day and allowed to cure another day before applying vinyl.
One technique I like to use on background panels is to darken down the corner. To get a smooth transition I use approx 30 percent clear added to my color which has been darkened way down. This will allow you to make several passes, until you get the affect you're happy with. The pattern should opened up a little and the pressure throtled back.
I get my clear at Wallmart for about $12. a gallon. It's under their Faux products. Exterior grade and hasn't given me any trouble.
My favorite painting technique remains the roller.
J
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
My apologies I went out of town. I spray very high pressure. I have no idea what because all the pressure gauges are broken on compressor and at gun. Its the highest pressure I can spray at. Every paint is different accordeing to thinnning. I spray everything at a flat angle. i like semi gloss it seems to offer the best low sheen without blinding you.
Flat does not spray well I dont know why. I sapry a cover coat and then come back and lay it down thicker. I strain all paint before it goes into gun. latex is so thick sometimes I actually pull the needle gauge out of the end of the gun and open it up
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
Just curious..... I'm wondering about overspray. I know with the HVLP you are supposed to get very little; but with you guys spraying at 90 psi or more, do you not get some? Anybody got a roller technique that smooths out pretty well?
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
Thanks Bruce, Joe, and others. Spraying is still our preferred method on larger backgrounds, expecially if there are textures involved.
We have experienced some spitting and do not always get a perfectly smooth finish, so I think the higher pressure may be the solution.
Like others, we use mainly semi-gloss (or satin)and thin with water and Flotrol, and strain.
For MDO panels and such (or larger, flat areas) we still use a roller.
Posted by Eric Houser (Member # 4461) on :
Are you guys thinning the paint when using a roller?
I've been spraying only because I get such a "textured" finish with a roller.
How 'bout some roller secrets? (pleeez)
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
We don't thin when using a roller. One secret of rolling is not to tickle it too much. We use a 3/8" nap roller cover and put it on and get out. If you keep going back over it the results is very rough, especially in the summer when the paint dries so quickly.
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