This is topic Plug in top of OneShot cans in forum Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Chris OBrien (Member # 5409) on :
 
SO, this probably a stupid or obvious question to a lot of the people here, but I used to work at a shop where the owner put little thumb screws in the top of one-shot cans, so he could unscrew it, pour out a bit and put the screw back in. The shop I work at now doesn't do it this way, but as I am starting to try and learn hand lettering on my own, I'm getting my own cans of paint, and was thinking of using the thumb screw thingies. Does anyone else do that? And if so, where can I get them, at a hardware store? I'm really trying to learn lettering but I'll be the first to admit I dont know much. Thanks for the help!
 
Posted by Ron Costa (Member # 3366) on :
 
In desperation I tacked some 1/4 flat washers to some short sheet metal screws. Still using them 2 years later.
 
Posted by Jamie Whitley (Member # 6371) on :
 
I tried this once and when the paint dried in the hole it was hard to get it to unscrew. So I just left them in there and I just take the lid of now and pour it.
 
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
 
I got you beat Jamie Whitley, last year I got in my car and it wouldn't start, the starter was moving very slowly so I just left the car there and now I just walk wherever I want to go.
 
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
 
Ha ha ha ha h ah ah ah aha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha !!!!

Joey Ha ha ha ha ha ha ah ha, stop it ! Ha ha ha ha ha Ha ha ha ha ha ha

Roger
 
Posted by Harris Kohen (Member # 2139) on :
 
Joey thats just 2 funny.....
 
Posted by Mike Clayton (Member # 723) on :
 
Chris,

Get a self tapping screw (usually called a sheet metal screw, probably a #8 or #10), the kind that has an end that looks like a thin drill bit, and use them. make sure there is no oil on it before you insert it into the top of the paint can. Then, just shake the can well, remove the screw, and squeeze the bottom of the can if it's getting empty.

You should really check out the info on Joey Maddens website, about paint savers and such:

http://members.tripod.com/Inflite

There is a wealth of knowledge there!

And as far as saying you don't know much, no one here knew anything until they first started either, so don't put yourself down.

MC

[ January 23, 2007, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: Mike Clayton ]
 
Posted by mark zilliox (Member # 3873) on :
 
auto fender bolts, they are about 1", pointed,we use a 1/2" wrench to "thread" into center of can.

pilot hole naturally, remove,squirt-i.e gravity, then let a glob or good drop of the same 1-shot to sorta "seal" the threads of the above bolt & by hand simply give it a good twist or 2.
Occasionally we have to "scrape" the build up off the lid,and drop the bolt into thinner to remove the buildup. we have plenty so it's never a "hurdle". Keeps for quite some time,but if the paint 2 air ratio is low 2 high, well.....then you have to refil 1/2 pt. ( anti-scim technikue)
or.....BUT,you'll get practice for the world one-shot can shucking contest held every year in.....i think it's @ Rapid Rays place.
 
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
 
This is a real traditional Thumb Screw which I personally use, there are no imitations although there are other screws which can work but at one time or another you'll need to use a pair of pliers for those and not for these as your thumb and finger will always work on this one.

Is this what you want?

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Posted by mark zilliox (Member # 3873) on :
 
i do ! i'm tired of working with redneck stuff. joey,hook me up ! Z
 
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
 
I'm gonna look for some of those at the hardware store tomorrow!
Maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks Joey.
Love....Jill
 
Posted by Dana Stanley (Member # 6786) on :
 
You could use a riv-nut, then just use a plain thumb screw. A sheet metal screw wont seal well and will eventually strip. I'd use a little gasket washer, or an o ring too.
 
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
 
I use the #10 or #12 (What ever is laying around) roofing screws used for Sheetmetal roofing they have a rubber washer build right on the screw then put the screw in the bottom part of the can. That way no air is introduced to your paint and you can really control your flow..(Slowly) [Smile]
If you want much more just pop the top and let it flow. That way and skin stays above your paint.
 
Posted by Chris OBrien (Member # 5409) on :
 
Joey- that's exactly what my old boss used in the cans, and it seemed to work pretty good, but it seems like a lot of people do the same thing with different stuff. I'll swing by the lumber yard's hardware dept. and see what I can dig up. I know we got tons of self-tappers at the shop, and the ones with the little rubber seal seems like a good idea. Now I just gotta get painting!
 
Posted by Dave Utter (Member # 634) on :
 
http://store.nutsandbolts.com/license-plate-screws-nuts-bolts-15170.html
 
Posted by William Holohan (Member # 2514) on :
 
Dave, thank you for the address. Ordered some this evening.
 
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Jillbeans:
I'm gonna look for some of those at the hardware store tomorrow!
Maybe I'll get lucky.

only a bunch of hardware nuts, where "getting lucky" means getting a screw.. uh, well maybe not [Roll Eyes]
 
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
 
Hey Bill, what skin are you speaking of?
 
Posted by Robert Larkham (Member # 2913) on :
 
Hey all do some searches for the thumb screws. I once thought 25 for $13 was a good deal but last week I bought 50 for the same price. Sorry I can't find my receipt so I don't know where I got them.
 
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
 
get your one shot can

take lid off

throw lid away

bust thru the hard crap with screwdriver when ready to pour

set can back in cabinet
"lid" will form over fresh paint in 2-3 days

repeat step 4 when ready to use
 
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
 
Those things sure make it harder to stack cans on a shelf.
 
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
 
O.K.

I'm in. I use the sheet metal screws with a hex head (#8 1/2"). I put the screw into the lid, near the edge, with a nut driver. Shake well!.

Turn can upside down and remove screw. (I'm assuming we are using 1/2 pint cans) Squeeze the sides of the can (like the old oil cans) to get a somewhat measured amount of paint. Replace the screw, BEFORE you tip the can back up. (I use a paper tissue to quickly wipe around the screw to remove remaining paint before tightning the screw).

What happens is that any air that gets into the can has to pass thru the paint first and it picks up solvents. So the air at the top of the can can't cause a skin.....if a screw hole gets stripped or loaded with paint, just make another hole with a new screw. I get to the botttom of every can of paint.....all the way up to gallons.

I can also stack the cans (right side up).

Use it as you choose! [Smile]

Joe,

Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
 
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
 
Joey,
Can't say if it happens everywhere but here at 7000ft my paint skins over very quickly as it so Dry up here. If I leave the lid off a can of 1shot it will skin over within the day.
 
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
 
yes Bill now I remember the ol'days before I got a lifetime supply of Paint-Sav. I'm sure alot of signpainters remember that stuff but forgot to include the future in their plans.

Bruce Ward, and how often does anyone remember that the skin contains important properties which are removed from the paint over a simple task like putting a lid on the can. I could remember visiting signpainter friends back in the 60'70's and seeing that kind of system and would get sick thinking what their home kitchen must look like [Smile]
 
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
 
No joy at my hardware store, but a friend who works there is going to look at an old hardware store by her house.
Love....Jill
 
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
 
I'll have to try that on our Gallon Cans Joey. To see if that helps some.. I don' have Paint-Sav but I do have a Spray that we use in the 5 Gallon Jugs of Resin to keep the moisture out. Guess I should read the label and see if it works for paint.
[Smile]
 
Posted by jake snow (Member # 5889) on :
 
After watching this post play out, I have decided to reveal my secret to paint handling. After years of frustration, I decided to design my own product for paint distribution. After many failed attempts, I have found the ultimate way to make paint pouring/sealing a thing of pleasure instead of dread.

There are 2 eliments to this. The first is the 5" long chromed steal friction release tool. Now stay with me on this, it gets kind of complicated. The friction release tool is incerted in the top of the can. Generally at the far edge. Once forming a tight seal with the can top, you apply a down and outward pressure to the top of the release tool. Now it takes practice to get it right, but it can be done. Once the tool has released a large enough opening in the can I am able to put a aggitation device within the can to make sure all materials are sufficiently combined. At this point it gets kind of tricky (practice, practice, practice) I will then take the can and using my wrist, I slowly rotate the can (this can be done to the left or the right) and as the can rotates, the paint will filter out of the above stated hole into what ever container you are using at that time. When the container is filled to the right capacity, I then start rotating the can in the OPPOSITE direction. This is very important. Once the can is back to it's original degree, I will then take the portion of the top and replace it on the said can. BUT we are not done! To finish this, you must make sure that the reattached portion is sealing well with the base can. And thus our tool #2... It is a gravity/force powered device that took a long time to perfect. But with the help of Granpa Dan and his multicam. I was able to get the pieces made to the exact demisions. When using, you simply hold in hand and move arm (And help from gravity) to apply a slight blow of pressure to the reapplied portion of the can. By doing this in a efficient manner you are able to secure the portion back to it's original state.

Now I am only releasing this to my fellow members of this BB. It is copyrighted. If you would like to purchase my device for your own personnel use, please give me a call and I can have my distributor (Abracadbra signs) get one shipped out to you asap!

I have attached a picture of the tools for your viewing pleasure below......


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[Big Grin]
 
Posted by Chris OBrien (Member # 5409) on :
 
hahaha... Jake, that reminds me of helping my dad frame houses. If something needed to be adjusted slightly, he would get out "The Persuader" ... better know as the sledgehammer. Always worked.
 
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
 
Jake, you forgot to mention positioning yourself (& requisite clean white shirt) in the direction of that blue drip puddle over on the right, prior to rotating the "persuader" into position!
 
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
 
That's why I use my persuader to drive a sixteen penny (not the cost--it's the size of it) nail in a number of spaces places through the bottom edge of the cleverly designed circular paint reservoir that is usually aimed at my white shirt. The reservoir is visible as the blue drip puddle Doug mentioned.
 
Posted by Dave Utter (Member # 634) on :
 
OK, here's my trick

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Nice clean can

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open can and get two paper cups. (non-waxed)

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tear "U" shape out of one cup down to the level of paint you want in the cup.

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dip torn cup in paint to fill.

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place filled cup in second cup.

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close nice clean can. [Wink]
 
Posted by John Lennig (Member # 2455) on :
 
Joey gave me 2 thumbscrews(OUCH) and his plastic container w/ lid and ball bearing(OUCH again) plus some of his palette cards. Well, i've never used them...they are in my Museum Collection [Rolling On The Floor] ...

He is a Pro all the way. later got some poor substitutes thumb screws... but forgot to use the paint-sav! well, there is more time, i hope!
meanwhile, i'm cutting skins off and losing important ingredients, crap!!

so many ways to not get it right, i'm trying them all!
BTJohn
 
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
 
John,

If the substrate's rough enough, you can use the cut off skins like a crayon, although mixing colors is a real challenge.
 
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
 
Post moved as to not Hijack Thread.

[ January 24, 2007, 10:03 PM: Message edited by: William DeBekker ]
 
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
 
MAC[tac] users never have the problems P[aint] C[an] users experience.
 
Posted by Bobbie Rochow (Member # 3341) on :
 
Joey, I have about 1/2 a can of that there paint Salv stuff, & I noticed it has a nice tar smell to it, like asphalt on a hot day, or something. I'm sure somebody has to figure out how to make this stuff!

I have wondered, tho, when your paint in the can gets lower & lower & you have more & more of that salv in the paint, doesn't it change the properties of it?

Hey, Jilly, let me know if you find somma them screws!
 
Posted by John Lennig (Member # 2455) on :
 
David, you're looking deep into the words, seeing things others are missing, have you got a net or lifejacket on??? [Eek!] you're getting under my skin!

John
 
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
 
John,

Under the skin is what's left of the paint.
 
Posted by mark zilliox (Member # 3873) on :
 
JAKE ! that was the best picture-post in the "humor" category for me!


i gota' go this am & sling some fantastic plastic on a truck up the road-but....BUT i will reply with my "version" of the Southern Maryland DIY pic-how 2 open i shot.........friday !!!

stay tuned sir,carry on & well done. sometimes this BB takes itself too serious. Aughiteee. Zman
 
Posted by William Holohan (Member # 2514) on :
 
Quick note:
Ordered the screws from NutsandBolts late on the 23rd. Got them early this afternoon via UPS. Now that is service. Thanks Dave Utter. Very good source.
 
Posted by mark zilliox (Member # 3873) on :
 
Chris O' ! i don't think i'll get a good's night rest cause of your post !!@%$!@#!!! ( beeeeep)
Actually, i warned Jake about my DIY-southern Md. Style ,1-shot dispensing, method.

So, naturally i'm looking forward to tommorrow's Photo Shoot........sorta like PBS /This Old Sign shop- the duct Tape Guys-Blue Collar"get er done" etc. etc. "combo"!!
good night to all. mr.Z
 
Posted by Chris OBrien (Member # 5409) on :
 
Mark, I know. I never though what I though to be a quick question would have started such a response! What a loquacious buch of people. Thats why I like this place...
 
Posted by Dave Utter (Member # 634) on :
 
whoaaa Chris.........easy with the big words here buddy. We're mostly rednecks here.

loquacious........spell that wilson.......
 
Posted by mark zilliox (Member # 3873) on :
 
JAKE Snow! i finally had the time & OJT on upload pic's of the Photo shoot i mentioned...ie="warned" was coming.......sir.

As you may know Southern Maryland ( my neck of the woods ) is the the Tri-County area, Charles,St. Mary's & mine Calvert. the area has a few hand painters & all 3 have their own "peculiar" way of addressing the 1-shot paint "dispensing method".
So, out of the kindness of my heart, let me show what the 3 tekniquez are, if you would bear with me, this may be of use to some other skilled craftsman "lurking" in the BB shadows ( like ahhhhh M. Clark ! )

First up the St. Mary's County tecknique:
( actually St. Mary's was the original landing site of Capt. John Smith ( Pocahantas main squeeze i think )-before the Jamestown settlement, in 1849 i think, in an effort to prospect for gold..-you know this from College history i'm sure as the Gold rush.. as in "the 49 ers" )

ok. here goes:
IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b253/markzilliox/SM-FINAL.jpg[/IMG]
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now for good ol' Charles County ( ie=chuck):
this county had slots back in the 70's on the "Strip" -Rt. 301, many places similar to the Nevada Vegas, the Desert Inn, Jean's Las Vegas, the Wigwam, Starlighter, etc....and you may not be aware that this is the origional AREA 51, there are several AlienFest's held annually in downtown Waldorf !..here's their tecknique :
IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b253/markzilliox/CHUK-SETUP.jpg[/IMG]
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And finally my county, Calvert....you may not know this but the British, during the War of 1812...or was it 49' ?... did not come up the Potomac River,as anticipated , but our river the Patuxent, actually there was a naval battle in Battle Creek,named afterwards naturally, where the Maryland militia under Commodore Joshua Barney-from Baltimore, held the forces off with a makeshift flotilla with cannons lashed to there bows, for a while......the British eventually made it up to Bladensburg and brushd aside the militia there also & marched to the under-construction White House a few miles east & torched it ! ) afterwards i think they caught the light commuter rail up to New England to catch the Red sox's seasoner opener-Ray R. told me that )

here it comes the "favorite" tecknique used :
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Posted by jake snow (Member # 5889) on :
 
Zilliox.. [Rolling On The Floor] ...did you get anythinig done today... [Rolling On The Floor]

I don't know whos worse, you or DeBekker

Go paint something would ya!

[Rolling On The Floor]
 
Posted by captain ken (Member # 742) on :
 
heres the Captain Ken technique:

1) remove lid carefully....
2) trough lid in trash can
3) spill paint all dow n the side of the can and in the rim...
4) dip popsicle stick in color and drizzle into dixie cup
5) squirt some hardener in, and stir....
6) paint away
7) stack can in paint cabinet, with no lid


upon using the can again.....

1) jam screwdriver into skinned over paint, stir well,
2) pour desired amount into dixie cup spilling more paint down the side and in rim...
3) add hardener and stir well
4) restack can in paint cabinet, carefully as to not tip over

(this technique although used many years personally is not recommended by anyone else or by me for that matter, and certainly is wasteful of paint, which sould make OS happy, but representitives have told me, do not use this method or recommend it anyone)

this message brought to you by NEPAC the New England Paint Abusers Collilison
 
Posted by mark zilliox (Member # 3873) on :
 
Capt K. ! i tried to upload pics in sequence for the benefit of my fellow" heads".....so here's my last post on this useful & "regionally" unique techniques :
first St. Mary's county : ( they got the amish so there first-old fashioned but hard workers )
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Posted by mark zilliox (Member # 3873) on :
 
and Charles County ( chuck county....the slot machine town- waldorf
)..i think this was the first signs by tommorrow franchise on the east coast....
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Posted by mark zilliox (Member # 3873) on :
 
and finally my county...Calvert, where the British in the War of 1849, rowed up the Patuxent to brush aside the militia & march from Bladensburg onto the then under-construction White house, and unfortunately plant a satellite dish on top & watch the season opener of the Red Sox......upon losing to the Yankess they....you'll never believe this historically accurate tidbit-torched the dam place !

However, gold was later found shimmering in the Potomac & led to the biggest strikes of the precious mineral ( no i'm not taking about the high grade pigments used in 1-shot enamels ) GOLD ! hence the 49 ers. ! honest.

my very own Calvert Tecknique :
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Ken would you care to have one of my staff fax you an app. for SMRSPAC....Southern Merryland Redneck Signpainters..PAC ? sir.? take care all. Z....ps: i TOOK my meds, they work a little.
 


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