Does anyone out there have a favorite way to mount a 3' x 4' x 1.75" redwood sign on a brick building?
Posted by Ricky Jackson (Member # 5082) on :
Have I got a solution for you! Cut two redwood splines about 4" x 36" with an undercut on the long edge. You'll also need a small spacer for the bottom about 2" x 36". Mount one spline to the backside of the sign near the top with the undercut pointing down, high edge out, creating a space underneath. Also mount the spacer near the bottom of the sign. Mount the other spline on the wall with the high edge out so it receives the other spline. Use countersunk Tapcons for attaching the wood to the brick or mortar. Simply hang the sign on the other spline and it's done. It won't move and I've never had one stolen that was mounted like that. No mounting showing.
Posted by jake snow (Member # 5889) on :
Take a 1"x4" cedar board. Rip a 45 deg. cut down the length of it. Mount one side to the sign and one side to the wall. And just hang it on there. Also put another 1" kicker board at the bottom to make up the space of the top piece.
Run one screw throught the face and into the brick at the bottom. And its locked in place.
Edited to say. What Ricky said. God thats scary!
[ December 21, 2006, 04:49 PM: Message edited by: jake snow ]
Posted by Tim Rieck (Member # 1699) on :
I use a stud mount for this situation. Drill and screw studs into the backside of the sign. Make a paper or cardboard template of the sign with the stud locations. Place template on building and mark stud locations on wall. Drill hole in brick using appropriate bit and hammer-drill. Blow out holes and fill with adhesive. Mount sign to wall and fix until adhesive sets.
Posted by Bill Lynch (Member # 3815) on :
Another way is to use 3" shoes top and bottom. Screw them to the wall then set the sign in and screw in from the edge.
Posted by Laurie Corl (Member # 5324) on :
Ricky
Is the sign just hanging on the spline? Are there any fasteners holding the splines together? Is the bottom spacer just resting against the building?
This is California after all. We had a little 3.5 shaker here ysterday that was within 10 miles so it was exiting! I'd be afraid the sign would jump off the wall.
[ December 21, 2006, 08:59 PM: Message edited by: Laurie Corl ]
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Altho a "french cleat" (whats being described here) is a very efficient way to install such a sign you're right about California building codes and I doubt the inspectors would allow such a mounting.
Since you're mounting on a brick building I would suggest no less than 4 anchors ...I use the expanding machinest mounting bolts ( 5/16") they take a 3/8" hole. (the expanding sleeve is 3/8" in diameter...the bolt is 5/16"))make sure the bolt is long enough to go thru your sign and hold tightly. Do this by "setting" the bolt before you install the sign then cut off the amount of bolt you don't need (with a hack saw)then back the nut off so sign can be installed over the bolts. Make sure the expansion sleeve is a 3" (bricks are only 3" and it won't work expanding behind them)
Drill your face where you want the mounts and make an install pattern. One trick I use to hide the bolts is to use a spade bit to drill the sign about half way thru the same size as a 3/4" copper plumbing cap then drill the rest of the way thru with a 3/8" standard bit (tho accept the bolts with a little wiggle room).
Once the sign is in place take some of the background color and swab the hole then insert the cap to cover the bolt tapping it gently with a hammer (rawhide if you have one) this makes for a beautiful hidden hardware install) paint the cap with the same color as the background.
shoud you ever need to remove the sign simply drill a self drilling screw about an inch long into the middle of the cap and as it hits the bolt under neath it will draw the cap out easily with no damage ...otherwise the cap will stay there forever if it's not tinkered with.
Hope all this makes since ...one thing I know for sure ...the inspector will find no fault with this type of install.
This is all much easier than it sounds...just make sure your install pattern is levee when you start.
Good luck...you'll like this install method...it's solid and attractive.
Posted by Cam Bortz (Member # 55) on :
I'd use king clips (the oversized version of panel clips) from Brooklyn Hardware (they advertise in SignCraft). These are extruded aluminum cleats that work on the principle of the french cleat, but because they are deeper and tighter are a lot more secure. For additional security you could add a bead of silicone to the inside of the cleat - the sign won't shake loose until the building falls.
Another question: Which way does the grain run in your sign (horizontal or vertical)? A redwood sign that size will expand and contract up to 3/8" across the grain, and if it's bolted tight to the wall without room to move, it will either crack or buckle.
Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
I use cleats or shoes to easily get the sign onto the wall straight and level, then through bolt into sheilds.
Posted by Ricky Jackson (Member # 5082) on :
Laurie, Jake explained it a LOT more simply than I did but we're talking about the same exact thing. I would add the screw in the bottom for sure.
Posted by Laurie Corl (Member # 5324) on :
Thanks guys
I was also concerned about the expansion. The grain is horizontal. When I've used cleats on previous installations (Gatorfoam signs) I have another spacer attached to the wall above the other bottom spacer and then screw or otherwise lock the two spacers together from below so there is still no fasterner showing.
