This is topic Is There an Etch Look Vinyl That Can Be Applied Wet? in forum Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Tim Whitcher (Member # 685) on :
 
I haven't used etch look vinyl in a while, and I've always applied it dry. I've heard applying wet can be a problem. I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of a brand that applies wet. I need to reverse cut a large (48" x 72") detailed logo to glass, and would like to apply wet to avoid any bubbles.

Thanks!
 
Posted by Tom Giampia (Member # 2007) on :
 
Tim,

We've used the Avery (only because I like the effect it gives) wet and dry. I'd use a light spray of rapid tac 2 for the application you are describing.

When I've had to apply 4'x 8' full coverage to glass as a total frosting, I will saturate both the window and the un-masked vinyl with WINDEX, (I use a garden sprayer) slide the oversized piece into position, burnish with a felt squeegee, and then trim the edges after about 15 - 20 minutes. The vinyl will not really set up for a day or 2 (depending on conditions), but it is completly bubble free, and very easy to re-position.

I know that you are not supposed to use windex, but THIS WORKS!
 
Posted by Joy Kjer (Member # 3026) on :
 
I use 3-M's dusted crystal. When applying solid sheets I saturate both the vinyl and the glass I am applying it to with WATER... 100% tap water. No issues with it, good application. I'm not sure about applying a detailed application wet, but I would try it on a small sample because it is so much more forgiving when wet. I always tell the client that this material requires a few days to look its best.
 
Posted by Cheryl Lucas (Member # 1656) on :
 
It's been a while since I've done a large wet application using etched vinyl, and I believe I used Avery.

With a detailed piece, it's important that you make sure the window is squeaky clean.

Make sure your paper towels do not leave a residue or lint-type bits.

*Avoid accidental smudges on the glass, of hand and body oils that may prevent small details from sticking. Also, avoid touching the the vinyl, for the same reason.

Whenever possible, I try to hinge at the top.

I have had best results when both the window and vinyl are completely saturated with Rapid Tac 2. (Dry spots encourage bubbles and creases.)

Have someone hold the bottom of the vinyl off the window while you squeegy from the top, middle and outward. Keep the area you squeegy, wet!

Once the vinyl has been squeegied down, completely saturate the application tape with Rapid Tac 2, allow it to sit for a minute or two (you should notice it start to wrinkle) and squeegy the entire piece again. This will loosen the application tape from the vinyl.

While removing the application tape in detailed areas, you may want to tear it and work it off in smaller pieces. You may also want to place something dark on the opposite side of the window to aid in identifying where the details are, to avoid the possibility of picking them up with the application tape.

I've found, the hairiest part of a large, wet, detailed application, is removing the application tape. If all else fails, be prepared to wait it out a day, maybe two, depending on the environment.

Keep it clean, wet and use good squeegy pressure in the detailed areas and there shouldn't be a problem with bubbles... [Wink]

Cher.
 
Posted by Paul Luszcz (Member # 4042) on :
 
We do this quite a lot.

We use 3M Dusted Crystal and apply it wet with Rapid Tac.

The absolute absolute rule is to leave the transfer paper on until it dries. It will practically fall off then and the film will be applied perfectly with no bubbles.

On a very, very intricate design, we have cut it and taped it without weeding, preferring to weed it right on the glass, but we do this very rarely.
 
Posted by Tim Whitcher (Member # 685) on :
 
Thank you for all of your detailed replies! One other thing; how much time should it take to apply, start to finish? I'm trying to figure a bid on doing three of these. Thanks!
 


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