Here is another carving done in cherry from the Vector Art 3D collection.
Posted by Dan Sawatzky (Member # 88) on :
Nice work Andrew!
-grampa dan
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
Andrew, Nice stuff!
I'm impressed with the natural wood. When you were through with the carving, was there much clean-up? I guess you used 1/8" ball nose?
The rich color and satin finish put this one over the top.
Do you like the Vector Art files?
J.
Posted by Ricky Jackson (Member # 5082) on :
Ohhhhhhhhhh, sweeeeeeeeet! Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
Well woops,
Andrew is Vector Art!
I feel so smart. Still the question remains, what do thing of that Vector Stuff?
HeHe
J
Posted by Andrew Holmes (Member # 2064) on :
Thanks fellas,
I guess I like the Vector Art files well enough, and I also like my business partner in this venture a lot as well. His name is James Booth, former North American sales manager for ArtCam, a real pro and my former boss when I was a distributor for ArtCam. James and I used to speculate about the 3D clipart possibility in the old days as we both realized how difficult it is to develop good 3D designs in software like ArtCam and Enroute. It is a big comittment even for people who are skilled and experienced with graphic software. We are developing a large collection of "models" from a number of sources including artists who work in clay, wax and plasticine and also are working with some very skilled graphic people who can develop designs cold turkey in software. It is a fun business and we are off to a good start with strong sales into several markets.
Yes Joe, you are right about a 1/8 inch ballnose finishing pass at 12,000 rpms with an 8% stepover. The Roland machine (MDX-650) is very fast and precise but not strong like a Perske spindle, so I have to take ligher passes. It is really a prototyping machine for milliing "snap fit" masters. No sanding necessary in cherry. I also sprayed the Otters with 3 light coats of Varathane. However, I have not had the same results with walnut and softer woods. Cherry is really wonderful to work with.
I have a lot more stuff to share on the site and will post some other things we are working on from time to time.
Best to all,
Andrew
Posted by Randy Campbell (Member # 2675) on :
Real nice.
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
OOPS!! posted way too late!
[ December 12, 2006, 11:04 PM: Message edited by: Dave Grundy ]
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
Andrew,
Thanks for the technical information.
The step over rate seems very slight. Is this because you didn't want to use a larger bit to do the clear out, or because you just wanted to set it up and let it run? Perhaps you knew the finished result wouldn't need sanding.
Do you have any experience with routing Honduars Mahagony and will it smooth up as well as the Cherry. I'd consider using more Cherry but it's not very good outdoors.
James Booth is really "Top Drawer". The 3D files he has made for us are close to perfect. He's a real pleasure to deal with also.
Good for you guys,
J
Posted by Tony Vickio (Member # 2265) on :
Andrew, can't wait 'til you move back to Watkins Glen!
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
Nice work Andrew...and thanks for the information on the bit you used.
Keep the photos coming.
I'll second Joe's praise of James Booth. I just talked to him a few days ago and he's very eager to help folks with 3D models for routing.
Posted by Andrew Holmes (Member # 2064) on :
Hard woods machine better than soft woods because they seem to hold up to the cutting edge better rather than shredding.
Real Mahogany is hard to find these days as it is nearly extinct.
Here is a photo of a technique that can improve a finish somewhat. The final finishing pass is done at 45 degrees, across the grain.
I like to do a finishing pass with a very light cut. This can take place after your day is done and the lights are out.
We generally rough a piece out with a 3/8" ballnose bit with a .1" offset @ 50% overlap and then do a beauty pass with the 1/8" bit at 75-90% overlap depending on the piece.
With the AUTO TOOL CHANGER on our MultiCam I can leave the building as soon as I push start.
-grampa dan
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
Beatiful Work.. Have used a few of your Models on some projects.
Question: Where did you get the Long Shanked 1/8" Ball Bit. I can't seem to find one in the onsrud Catalog
Posted by Andrew Holmes (Member # 2064) on :
I have never made my living by making signs so I should be a little circumspect about offering opinions, but Dan does make a very important point about pushing the start button and returning in the AM with an object on the router table done, and that piece perhaps worth hundreds and even thousands of dollars.
If you have a reliable router system with a tool changer, it is like having a totally dedicated employee who never complains and never gets tired and is willing to work all night with the doors locked and the lights out. How much would you expect to pay per year for an employee like that? Maybe around 50K or so with all the extra costs. That 50K will buy a very nice CNC setup and will go on working for many more years for free after the first year.
All you need is a steady market for routed products and I think, pardon me for mentioning it, the Vector Art 3D collections can put you in business immediately doing doors, cutting boards, signs, etc., etc, and you do not have to learn much at all to produce very high quality carvings. We even offer a free machining program that is very sophisticated and user friendly. Vector Art 3D Machinist was written by the same team who developed ArtCam, so it is a beautiful piece of software for generating tool paths.
Speaking of software, I recently downloaded the MAC version of CarveWright software and tested it with our models. It is a terrific and intuitive software interface and very easy to use. I was very impressed. James Booth tested the PC version and had the same comments. The CarveWright folks have really done their home work and know the market they are after.
I will post some more carvings soon...
Best to all,
Andrew
Posted by Andrew Holmes (Member # 2064) on :
RolandDGA has a big selection of long shanked bits. They are a little pricey but very good quality.
Posted by Ricky Jackson (Member # 5082) on :
Mmmmmmm maple trout! They're delicious on pancakes Posted by Kelly Thorson (Member # 2958) on :
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Andrew Holmes: If you have a reliable router system with a tool changer, it is like having a totally dedicated employee who never complains and never gets tired and is willing to work all night with the doors locked and the lights out. How much would you expect to pay per year for an employee like that? Maybe around 50K or so with all the extra costs. That 50K will buy a very nice CNC setup and will go on working for many more years for free after the first year.
Well said!
What would really scare me is the learning curve to train me to use that employee. Posted by Andrew Holmes (Member # 2064) on :
Hi Kelly,
To do some of the custom work that Dan and other artists on this site do, is a huge learning curve. However, what Vector Art 3D is trying to do is to democratize the 3D router opportunity by offering a large collection of high quality models and free machining software to get folks started immediately. If you have the means to make money right away, the more complex and challenging kinds of projects can be approached slowly and with a gradual increase in understanding. If you like, Go to vectorart3D.com and download the free 3D Machinist software, the free 3D models and watch the videos. Our software is as easy to use as a print driver and works by asking very basic question of the user. It really is very easy to do, I promise. We made it as easy as it can be to do based on our combined experience of many years with CNC stuff.
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
Andrew,
Perhaps I can be of assistance with your wood supply. Hogan Hardwoods, formerly Paxtons have large quantities of Honduras Mahogany, Cypress, Cherry, Pecan, etc. I purchased 210 bd ft. of 12/Quarter after visiting their mill. There must have been a railroad cardload setting in the lot.
The cost is approx 3 bucks a foot less than vertical grain redwood. Who's ever thought.
Thanks Joe for the wood connection. Do they have a web site? I took a peek at your web site and very much enjoyed your design work and your sense of style. I spent 21 years in the public school system myself, teaching English in a High School. I guess I know a bit about machining wood and not much else, because I have had the luxury of doing a lot of experimenting over the years and developing ideas and products.
In answer to your earlier question, I generally do a roughing pass with an end mill and get rid of most of the wood with a 3/8 tool. I do this at the limits of what the spindle and wood can stand without tearing things up. I usually do an intermediate pass with 1/4 inch round nose mill at about a 15-20% step over and then finish up, if required, with an 1/8 inch finishing pass at 8-12% step over. Most of what I do is for display or demonstration, so the machine time is not money, as it may be for a working shop. I usually don't care how long it takes to get a nice finish, and often let a job run into the midnight hour without supervision. But once again, that is the beauty of a good setup-the machine can run all night to get good results.
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
Andrew,
Thanks very much for the technical information. I'm sure there's lots of folks taking notes.
I thought I had included Hogan's Hardwoods in my prrevious reply. Sorry about that.
About Mahagony: It seems that some is not really a hardwood at all. The Phillipine variety, for example, is realy from the pine family. I am going to visit their showroom again to look at the African variety.
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I can leave the building as soon as I push start.![[Razz]](tongue.gif)