Talked to my supplier about getting plexiglass to apply Soljet prints onto.
He said that it is virtually impossible to laminate vinyl to plexiglass without air bubbles.
He tried this once himself, he explained, using every method and grade of vinyl - Rapid tac and all similar wet methods/products, dry installs, all types of calendared and cast vinyls.....with no luck.
This plexi will be backlit....and the size of the pieces will be 15" X 25".
Thickness needs to be 1/8".
Any experience with applying vinyl to plexi? Can it be done bubble free? If so, what is your technique?
Any better, alternative materials you might suggest that can be backlit and would be transluscent?
Thanks for your advice and sharing your experience.
Posted by Tom Giampia (Member # 2007) on :
If you lay it down wet, you shouldn't have a problem.
I use Rapid tac, and do it all the time with Edge prints, and recently with Versacamm prints.
One problem with plexi is the amount of static it holds. Wetting it solves this for the most part.
Posted by Curtis hammond (Member # 2170) on :
its very hard to lay down without bubbles,, but it can be done..
I've done it more than a few times. It works easiest with a laminator machine.. By hand it is much harder but use a load of RT. Work from the middle out.
Posted by Bruce Bowers (Member # 892) on :
I concur with the others. It is possible. I have done it wet from the center out on big stuff and used my QuickMount for small stuff.
I give the material a shot of Static Guard before application. It really helps to keep the static to a minimum.
Good luck!
Posted by Todd Gill (Member # 2569) on :
Bruce - what is "static guard" and where can I get it?
Thanks for the advice guys....I never would have imagined plexi would be a problem till my supplier warned of his experience.
Would white plexi be the best alternative as a material?
The "sign" will go in drive-in menu speaker/frames at an old A&W restaurant...there will be one on each side of the frame, and they are backlit from bulbs in the center.
There is a glass panel in front of each "menu sign".
You know, these are the menu board that you drive up to and park - and then hit the speaker button on the menu sign to place your order...and they bring the food out to your car.
American Graphitti baby! Yeahhh! Posted by Elaine Beauchemin (Member # 136) on :
what I do is let the plexis breathe for a day this helps to eliminate outgasing.
then flod the plexis and the print apply and squeege from center out.
g'luck!
[ March 28, 2006, 09:50 AM: Message edited by: Elaine Beauchemin ]
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
Todd, check out your favorite discount store for "Static Guard".. any place has it - grocery stores, kmart, target, wal mart, etc. It's in the laundry isle in a spray can, good for spraying on clothing, carpeting and other fabrics, even around electronics.
As far as vinyl on plexi - dude if it were impossible there would not be a single plexi sign on this planet not riddled with air bubbles - and I know I've seen, and made, lots of these signs without a single bubble. Let's think about this for a second, then fire your supplier for giving out misinformation. Posted by Jeff Spradling (Member # 1615) on :
Back in the day when I hand lettered bug deflectors the best thing I found to remove static was everyday rubbing alcohol.
I would wipe down the back side and even leave it a little wet.
It worked good for race car front and tail ends too.
I still use it to wipe down anything plastic I have to letter.
This might help eliminate the air bubbles.
Jeff Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Rapid Tac not TacII, a generous amount and no cleaning with anything but the Rapid Tac.
We have applied practically everything to plex,lex,etc., its NOT impossible to apply to these substrates with Rapid Tac, your just hearing it from someone that didn't learn the method properly, unfortunatly a number of suppliers and manufacturers fit that catagory.
Roger
Posted by Robert Graham (Member # 1167) on :
Why Rapid Tac only and not Rapid II? Just curious.
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Rapid Tac II is a lot more agressive then Rapid Tac, on plex you want as much positioning time as possible(minute or two)because of the need to squeegee out the air.
Good Question!
Roger
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Hey Todd, That's why your sign supplier is not a sign maker If you have a laminator, it's definitely the way to go. If not, follow Rogers suggestion and don't skimp on the fluid. Flood the surface of the acrylic and apply the vinyl. Depending on the size of the panel, you may want to have an extra set of hands to position the graphic. If there are small bubbles of fluid trapped after you squeegee and remove the transfer tape, you can use the vinyl liner as a slip sheet to squeegee the bubbles out.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
Posted by Peter Schuttinga (Member # 2821) on :
Like Elaine says, let it breathe. Remove the paper covering for a minimum of one whole day before applying vinyl, longer is better. You'll notice a smell, which is the plexi gassing off. before applying place the sheet on some damp paper towels to help dissapate and prevent static buildup. Then flood it with rapid tac and have fun.
Posted by Todd Gill (Member # 2569) on :
Hey, thanks a ton guys and gals....I appreciate all the advice. I'll let you know how it goes....lots of solution.... Posted by Bruce Bowers (Member # 892) on :
and use the white because it will diffuse the light better than clear will.
Posted by Louie Pascuzzi (Member # 1373) on :
We print backlit graphics on clear vinyl then lay them down on white acrylic . We use plenty of Rapid Tac and never even considered it a problem. Always came out good. We've done faces up to 4'x10' with no bubbles.
BTW, get a new salesman.
Posted by Louie Pascuzzi (Member # 1373) on :
OOPS! Double post.
[ March 29, 2006, 07:57 AM: Message edited by: Louie Pascuzzi ]
Posted by Todd Gill (Member # 2569) on :
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