This is topic HELP!!! Liquid Nails as edge sealer on MDO??? in forum Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Bobbie Rochow (Member # 3341) on :
 
OK, I am prepared for you guys to really get on me, like maybe what was I thinking?

I used my husband's Liquid Nails to edge seal my 1'2" sheet of MDO for a sign due next week. I waited til it got rubbery, thinking that it was set, then coated out my board & edges. The board dried beautifully, the edges are still wet! I never used this stuff for this purpose before. Thought I would try it.

My husband laughed at me & told me I should have let the Liquid Nails cure for 24 hours. Great.

So now I am downstairs using mineral spirits to wipe it off the edges. I tried using my handy-dandy scraper tool, but it just sticks in the wood & makes a mess.

Ok, my question is: Have any of you ever used Liquid Nails with good results? Should I sand it off & seal with something else?

OR.... Could it be that the liquid nails didn't cure because it was coated with One Shot paint & therefore still is not set underneath? Will me One Shot dry once the nails stuff is cured, therefore, maybe I can repaint it after the stuff is set?

It is all right next to a warm woodburner, should dry quick, huh?

HELP???
 
Posted by Bob Rochon (Member # 30) on :
 
Welllllll, if it were me i'd cut the edges back a bit getting rid of the liquid nails completely and coat with tite-bond 2 glue at least 2 coats.

Then prime and pain.
 
Posted by Bobbie Rochow (Member # 3341) on :
 
Where do I get this Titebond 2 glue?
 
Posted by Kissymatina (Member # 2028) on :
 
Bobbie, just about any lumber yard, hardware store, home depot, lowes.
 
Posted by Eric Barker (Member # 2972) on :
 
Bobbie, You should be able to find it at any hardware store. It's the waterproof version of the Titebond yellow glue used in woodworking.
 
Posted by Bobbie Rochow (Member # 3341) on :
 
Thanks, you guys. I just found it online at Lowes. So I don't use the original Titebond stuff, huh?

Guess I better go find Jon's putty knife. The scraper blade is too sharp, just gouges it. I DID manage to get the paint wiped off it, & now I have reflex blue fingers. yee-ha. It's 10:25 pm, I think once I get this scraped off, I will call it a nite.

It is snowing outside & I was gonna go on a nite-time-adventure-walk, to walk off the sweet garbage I have been ingesting to keep me off the smokes! Oh well.
 
Posted by Tom Rose (Member # 606) on :
 
Bobbie,
About 20 years ago I called Simpson ( a company that makes MDO ) and they told me to edge seal the bare edges of MDO with a product made for that. It is made by Imperial paint Co. And it is still available. Was solvent based but for the last maybe 10 years has been water based. I sand the sharp edges to round the paint film a bit and give it two coats of this product, using a cheap tossable synthetic sponge to dab it on.
I have MDO signs out for 10 to 12 years that still look fine.
I do not have the info. with me tonight, but if you are interested, call me ( leave your phone # if I'm out ) and I'll get you the phone # for Imperial.
 
Posted by Bobbie Rochow (Member # 3341) on :
 
Jon is trying to talk me into using his Elmer's exterior wood glue up, so he can go buy himself some Titebond!

This liquid nails stuff is a bugger to gouge off ! [Frown]
 
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
 
Bobbie.Hi!!

Do you run YOUR business or does yer hubby?

Sorry to say that, but consider it.

my only comment
 
Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
 
west system epoxy works good too
 
Posted by Carl Wood (Member # 1223) on :
 
Bobby - STOP ! just let the liquid nail cure - a day or 2 - then sand smooth & paint & go - I can't imagine trying to scrape off liquid nail - it's tougher than the wood - I understand it's probly a mess right now - just leave it alone a day to let it set up first -
 
Posted by james chrimes (Member # 5864) on :
 
Bobby, I make a ton of these signs with custom shapes and seal them all with a two part 5 min. epoxy. you can get this stuff at lumber yards or hardware stores. The brand that I use is called Devcon www.devcon.com it hardens quickly and holds up really great. Good luck.
 
Posted by Felix Marcano (Member # 1833) on :
 
I'd use West systems.
 
Posted by Bob Rochon (Member # 30) on :
 
The benefit of Tite-bond2 is it dries within minutes, is very cost effective and most importantly it works.

I wouldn't scrape it off, I'd cut the edges right off, I mean your customer won't miss an 1/8 of an inch or so. Unless it is an outdoor liquid nails I have heard of faliures outdoors.

And West systems might work as well but a much higher cost factor. Not to mention the fumes.

Oh and I agree with Dave. let your hubby use his elmers glue and you buy the tite-bond2

[ February 10, 2006, 07:48 AM: Message edited by: Bob Rochon ]
 
Posted by Tony Vickio (Member # 2265) on :
 
Boddie, I have been using Gorilla Glue! I sqigee (spelling?) a very thin layer on the edge. Push it hard into the voids. Make sure you makea "thin" layer. It dries smooth. It will only foam up if it too thick. So far I have had excellent results! Michael is right-on using west system epoxy. I'm just too lazy to mix it!!!

Also..........you can't be in a hurry when things have to cure!!!!
 
Posted by Jill Marie Welsh (Member # 1912) on :
 
Come see me some day at Trader Horn Bobbie, I can direct you to the glue section.
Man that is a huge bummer!
I'd do what Bob-O sez and give it a trimming.
Love....Jill
 
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
 
Bobbie, I know this doesn't help your present situation, but I'll give you some advice for next time.

Always run a test piece when trying a new product to see if it will work with your situation, weather, materials, etc. What works in New England may not be the answer for Texas or Arizona. Over the years I've heard Mike Jackson give this advice over and over....and it's valid.

You tried something that was unproven and now you have a mess. Sorry, but that seems to be what happened. Although this is a valuable learning experience it has cost you valuable money also.

With a little sample piece done and some experimentation you would have saved yourself a headache.

You did the rest of us a favor by doing the sample piece for us.

Good advice....but I don't always follow it myself. And I've had to pay the same price as you have.

We use the Titebond II with good success. The advice to cut off a small strip and reseal is a good one, I think.
 
Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
 
I ditto Tom's suggestion of Imperial's aluminized edge sealer.
I prefer the solvent based.
I think you can still get it, but you must purchase by the case & pay for hazmat shipping.

I've also used most of the above techniques, along with a good acrylic caulking.
They all work pretty well.
 
Posted by Ted Gore (Member # 4821) on :
 
Dear Bobby;

My name is Ted Gore I work with WEST SYSTEM Epoxy as Sign products Mgr. Over the years there have been many articles written in the trade publications referencing the use of WEST SYSTEM as the preferred method to waterproofing and sealing MDO. WEST SYSTEM has been producing Epoxies for the marine industry for over 40 years.

Over the years we have realized the importance of making our products more available to The Sign Industry. If you wish to purchase WEST SYSTEM Epoxy products you can call us direct at 866-937-8797 toll free, and purchase our products Wholesale.

I have completed a CD that deals directly with WEST SYSTEM Epoxy & MDO. It addresses priming, sealing, tinting, and adhering MDO signs. I would be happy to send you one if you wish.

The information we have gathered from many of our Sign making friends is that the most durable moisture resistant MDO edge is accomplished by sealing it with WEST SYSTEM Epoxy. The basic mixture is 105 Resin and 205 hardener you can also add a little colloidal Silica ( 406 ) to thicken the mixture.

I'm sorry if this sounds overwhelming but it is really quite simple. Our technical staff is available 5 days a week if you have any additional questions. Our Web site is www.westsystem.com. or you can e-mail me at westsystem@bellsouth.net

Once you use our System you will realize just how versatile it is.

Bobbie I hope this helps

[ February 10, 2006, 11:56 AM: Message edited by: Ted Gore ]
 
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
 
Ted - thanks for your reply. We've used West System for years but never have tried it as an edge sealer for MDO.

I'd be interested in seeing your CD.

Raymond Chapman
1907 Ramcon Drive
Temple, TX 76504

Thanks.
 
Posted by Jane Diaz (Member # 595) on :
 
GOOD to see the merchants here are taking notice and helping out! THANKS, Ted!
 
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
 
Hi Ted...glad to see you posting here. I'd like to look at your CD too if you want to send one. See you at the Dixie meet in Oct?
 
Posted by W. R. Pickett (Member # 3842) on :
 
...Bobbie, also try using LACQUER BASED SANDING SEALER.
(avail. at Lowes) It is made for sealing edges prior to applying primer.
 
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
 
What Bob said . . .
just take your skill saw and trim it off to raw lumber . . .
set up a staight edge to follow, put a layer or two of strips of transfer mask to avoid scuffin' or scratchin' the face with the saw plate . . .

then do what the rest said to seal it proper.
Then, use aluminum next time . . . lol (That's just my thing) [Wink]
 
Posted by Bobbie Rochow (Member # 3341) on :
 
Sorry, I have been gone all day, & it took me about an hour & 5 different stores to find Titebond!

Thanks to ALL of you for posting & helping me. I still cannot believe how great you all are!

Carl, you may be right, because once i got my wet One Shot cleaned off the Liquid Nails, it began to harden up REAL fast! It was hard to get off with the pallett knife I was using.

Tony, I actually had a thought of trying Gorilla Glue for something different, but was afraid of the expanding.

Raymond, you are right, & that is me, impulsively trying something new without testing it first!!!!

Ted, I am emailing you my address.
 
Posted by Kissymatina (Member # 2028) on :
 
Ted, thanks for bringing the CD to our attention. I would love to have 1, will send you an email. I looked at the West system a while back but couldn't quite figure out the different components. Hoping this CD makes sense of it for me.
 
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
 
Liquid Nails is not exterior durable. Don't try it again.
 
Posted by Deb Fowler (Member # 1039) on :
 
Great post, valuable information! I have only sealed edges with some filler wood, then primed and painted the heck out of them. This is what I needed to hear, as there are better ways. Thanks a lot guys!
 
Posted by Dave Draper (Member # 102) on :
 
We have used consruction adhesive for edge sealer on mdo and other pvc veenered plywood. It works.

Its not the WRONG way, its just not the ACCEPTED way. It takes longer to dry before paint. So the suggestions above make good sense.

If you had just let it cure, it would have been fine.

As for Liquid Nails, I would trust PL400 construction adhesive first.
 
Posted by Harry Ellis (Member # 6353) on :
 
Wow this is my first post here! I'd like to introduce myself and send a BIG HELLO to everyone!

Bobbi, Since you initially started this thread about 5 days ago I'm sure the Liquid Nails is set by now and your sign project is probably well on it's way out the door.

For filling the edges of MDO, for the past 10 years, I've been using an exterior acrylic latex caulking made by DAP it comes in the same type cartriges as Liquid nails.

I usually dispense a blob of it onto the end of a paint mixing stick or anything else laying around (i.e.; cut off, vinyl scrap, old squeegee, or the back of my hand if nothing else around) and with my forefinger apply it (mash it) into the edges. It dries real quick and multiple applications can be made in no time. Not to mention, cleans up with water.

The material is inert so anything will go over it. When working with MDO. I primer coat with latex (sprayed) and buff it out lightly between coats with medium grit scotchbrite (or equiv) pads. Then I normally finish with multiple coats of DuPont Imron, apply vinyl lettering and graphics, scuff it all again including the vinyl then shoot clear coat.

No complaints, callbacks, or re-do's yet.
 
Posted by Bobbie Rochow (Member # 3341) on :
 
Actually, the sign is not out the door yet, but I did gouge off the Liquid nails (maybe I should have waited like you & my hubby said, Dave!), bought me some Titebond, & glued it, then repainted it.

Just got done painting my letters on. It is a 4'x6' sign, & I could have vinyled it & been done with it yesterday, but I want to paint better & faster, so that's what i did. It came out nice too, thanks to a little help from my friends!!!!!
 


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