I tried something new(to me anyway)for hanging small signs....and it flopped(sorta).
I've got this box full of neat little pieces of hardware my father-inlaw gave me. I don't know what they are but thought they could be mounted on a small 12''x24'' sign to be installed on an office wall. The best way I can describe them is...take a piece of flat sheetmetal about .050 thickness and cut it in the shape of a sans serif "T"...more like helvetica bold about 2'' tall and wide. Now fold the two sides of the top stroke of the "T" in toward each other until they are at a right angle to the main stroke. Twist the ends of the corners of these to make little burrs. Now cut a slot or hole in the bottom of the "T".
I routed two 2'' diameter round holes about 5/8'' deep with a dovetail bit. Then set the folded configuration of each clip into the hole, leaving the flat piece with the slot exposed and pointing to the top of the sign. Then I poured the hole full of west systems epoxy. The flat slotted end could then be hung on a nail or screw and the other end would be firmly anchored in the epoxy which was firmly anchored in the dovetailed hole(wide at the bottom, small at the surface).
Well it did just fine as far as anchoring went but a good deal of the epoxy boiled up out of the hole . It will still function just fine but, this sign is to be shipped to another state and the customer might not like the way it looks...know what I mean.
Isn't there some kind of epoxy or something which won't go through a heat during the chemical reaction? They used to sell some kind in hobby shops which you could pour into containers and suspend bugs and things to make paperweights. But maybe that was acrylic or something.
I thought about silicone but don't think it will work in this case. Any ideas?
[ October 13, 2005, 03:51 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
Posted by Ricky Jackson (Member # 5082) on :
Silicone, eeeeuuuuuuwwwww!! I'm pretty sure all epoxies give off heat when mixed. You could try Gorilla Snot; it might work.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Ricky, I've got some Gorilla Snot..... Harvested from live mountain gorillas, with colds and sinus infections, during peak pollen season. It keeps quitar picks from slipping out from beween your fingers when your hands get sweaty. http://www.gorillasnot.com/
If'n you mean Gorilla Glue, that definitely will foam up out of the hole.
[ October 13, 2005, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
Posted by Ricky Jackson (Member # 5082) on :
LOL, I hate it when I drop a pick, especially in the middle of a blazing solo, the stage lights are on and the fog machine is crankin', the chicks are going wild and the pick goes flying. You just can't do justice to rock music with the chicken pluckin technique. That's true about the Gorilla glue foaming up; I forgot about that. The first time I used it I was totally disappointed. I didn't need to read the stupid directions, right? I mean, you pour it on, spread it around and it sticks. Wetting something with water before you glue it is totally foreign to me and I'm not talking Canada here.
Posted by Travis Jones (Member # 5741) on :
I'm sorta new in the sign business but I've been in automotive for years. There's a product called JB Weld that produces minimal heat if any that is very strong and durable enogh to plug holes in engine blocks. It also dosen't expand or shrink at all. You can pick it up at most auto part stores and wal-marts. From what you described it sound like this might work for you.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
HA...... Thanks Travis, I didn't think of JB weld. It would be kinda hard to pour into the cavity though, wouldn't it?
[ October 13, 2005, 05:10 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
You know..come to think of it, I've had a thick mass of west systems set up in the mixing cup a couple of times and it didn't boil up like that. It just solidified into a crystal clear block...
Wonder why this was different?
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
Wayne,
It's all about the depth of the vessel vs the surface area.
If the "slug" is deep yet still "narrow", it won't have enough surface area to discipate the heat generated during the cure.
If you're using the Fast catalyst you can try using a slower curing one which won't generate as much heat.
Posted by Mark Matyjakowski (Member # 294) on :
Gorilla glue doesn't expand much without moisture ... and not with any force. Could semi-fill hole (not all the way to top), cover with paper (something you can rip/soak/sand away after glue dries) and a weighted/clamped board. Any little trickels that sneek out, knock off with a razor blade.(easier within the first few hours after it dries)
Posted by Felix Marcano (Member # 1833) on :
LOL WAYNE! I once made a 1" pvc sign & the epoxy melted the PVC.
Posted by Travis Jones (Member # 5741) on :
JB Weld mixes as a pretty loose mixture but if you did have any spill out then there wouldn't be any easy way to get rid of the flash. So if you do decide to use it be careful.
Posted by Steve Racz (Member # 4376) on :
Wayne,
I drill and oversized hole (not a dovetail shape) and the epoxy doesn't boil out. In fact, when it dried, it actually shrank (shrunk?) a bit below the top of the hole. I use west systems also.
You may want to call their tech support line. The one time i called them they were very knowledgeable and helpful.
Thanks, Steve
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Hey Steve, What hardener and what temperature did you work with?
I was using 206 hardener and 105 resin at atemp of about 85F.
Posted by Bob Stephens (Member # 858) on :
quote:Originally posted by Mark Matyjakowski: Gorilla glue doesn't expand much without moisture ...
The problem with Gorilla Glue here in Florida is the humidity. Because the air is so saturated the glue expands like crazy even without adding any moisture.
Posted by Bob Stephens (Member # 858) on :
Wayne you could try only pouring the hole about 80% full and let it expand to the top. You might have to experiment with the percentage.
Posted by DianeBalch (Member # 1301) on :
You can use a filler in the West systems epoxy. Once you thicken it up you will have less problems with runaway exothermic reactions. Use sawdust or HDU dust if you don't want to buy cabosil or West Systems filler.
ernie
Posted by Steve Racz (Member # 4376) on :
Wayne,
Same here (206 and 105). I wonder if the shape of the hole (bigger at the bottom) caused the problem?
Thanks, Steve
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
I use the colloidal silica when laminating redwood signs but didn't think it was needed for this. Guess I could have used plain old sand in it since it's silica. Come to think of it, I've use redwood dust mixed into epoxy many times, for fixing knotholes and such, without it boiling out of the hole.
Thanks guys!
[ October 17, 2005, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
What about regular old Bondo?
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Good idea, Jeff. I have a can of that on the shelf if it ain't dried up. Thanks!
