Hello... I have a customer that would like a large 2 sided sign made - prob 4' x 8' or 4'x 10".
He only needs the painted/lettered sign - his building contractors are taking care of the posts & install.
He came into the shop asking for ½" alumalite for the material & has since asked about something thicker - I figured HDU would prob be the best solution, but I have never used it before.
Does HDU come in sizes that big? He wants the sign to be quite thick as well.
Any info you can give would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much! Mike
[ September 01, 2005, 11:03 PM: Message edited by: Mike Stowe ]
Posted by Bruce Bowers (Member # 892) on :
HDU is going to prove to be a costly option here. Unless you are going to carve, rout, or sandblast the sign, it does not warrant the money.
I would build an aluminum frame and skin it with .040" pre-finished aluminum. You can make the sign body any depth you need without breaking the customer's budget.
You could also do MDO as an option and build a wooden frame instead. It would be easier if you are not comfortable doing metal work. The downside is the weight.
A third option would be to use an old double face electric sign cabinet and slide in metal panels in lieu of plastic.
If you need some help, please feel free to call.
Posted by Bill Lynch (Member # 3815) on :
Since alumalite was already an option I would build a PT frame and skin it with alumalite and cap the sides with .040.
Posted by Mike Stowe (Member # 324) on :
Thanks for the help, Guys! I think I will go that route with the alumalite & 040 caps.
I really appreciate it. Mike
Posted by Mike Stowe (Member # 324) on :
Thanks again for the advice, guys, but I have another question...
Since I am going with the wood frame / alumalite option - is there any tips or tricks to finishing the edge & possibly hiding the screws that are used to attach the alumalite panels?
I'm sure I can get this sign to look good, but just wondered if there are any trusted ways of constructing this to look it's best.
Are there any ready made products that can be used to cap the edges or should I just try to find someone who can bend the .040 alum for me?
Any advice would be appreciated as this is a new project for me. We usually do the alumalite panel slid into a routed groove in the post/frame type of sign.
Thanks for the help! Mike
Posted by Michael R. Bendel (Member # 5847) on :
How about adhesive? You can cover the alumalite mounting screws with the .040. You can have your local heating & air-conditioning contractor do the cutting & bending for you.
The .040 could hang 3/4"to 1" on to the sign faces. (It would look like a thin lighted sign cabinet.)
Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
Do not use wood for a frame I did a job last winter with wood.. as the days warmed....the wood shrunk so bad we had to redo the job the aluminum puckered 2 sided....4'x16' the 16 foot measurment shrunk over 3/4 " I would recommend an aluminum frame...with aluminum edge trim
If you insist on a wood frame with aluminum skin ..use fasteners that are not tightened..and use oversize holes in the faces...allowing them to float dont use any adhesive....
[ September 25, 2005, 01:54 AM: Message edited by: Michael Boone ]
Posted by Barry Branscum (Member # 445) on :
use DIBOND and MDO. Put the posts and frame up as usual then screw the MDO to the Stringers or whatever, then GLUE the DIBOND (2mm) to the surface. No screws.
Posted by Jason Davie (Member # 2172) on :
Also To add to What Mike said about wood.. I just got a new roll of coil stock and it says not for use with New Prerssure Treated Wood.. Must be something new in this new ACQ PT Lumber that reacts with Aluminum Stock..
Jason D
Posted by Mike Stowe (Member # 324) on :
Thanks, Everyone... I'm not sure that the treated wood will be an issue since I am using Rigid alumalite panels instead of thinner stock to skin the frame.
The .040 will only be used as a decorative cap & can prob be secured with glue like Michael B. mentioned.
I will still do a bit more research, tho.
Thanks again! Mike
Posted by Michael R. Bendel (Member # 5847) on :
The alumalite is baked enamel... You don't have to worry about the reaction., however I have heard that the new treated wood (without arsenic I believe... ACQ PT = Arsenic clear Quality, Pressure treated? possibly?) does in fact react with galvanized screws. The hardware store will inform you of the correct screw to use. Posted by Mike Stowe (Member # 324) on :
Sorry for asking so many questions on this subject, but does anyone know of something I can use for the "edge cap" instead of the .040 aluminum.
I can't seem to find anyone that can bend the alum in a piece that long.
It really does not matter what it is made of as long as it hides the wood/alumalite edge.
THanks again to everyone for all the help! Mike
[ October 04, 2005, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: Mike Stowe ]
Posted by Robert Root (Member # 758) on :
Mike
Home Depot carries edge caps in 1/4 1/2 and 3/4. White flexible plastic sold in 8' strips. There is a bit of wiggle room for slightly smaller stock. Good luck
Posted by Jason Davie (Member # 2172) on :
You can rent an alum brake from any contractor rental store pretty cheap. I have one that will bend alum in 10 ft lengths
Jason D
Posted by Jason Davie (Member # 2172) on :
Also for new ACQ Pressure Treated Lumber you will want to use Ceramic Coated Screws. Also There is a company that makes Double Zinc Coated Nails that are ok in ACQ i think they are called Maze Nails
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