I have a guy who is supposed to bring me a boat to letter the license numbers and some flames. Any special prep steps i should take? I was thinking rapid prep and then 1 shot and air brush the flames. Any thoughts on price?
Posted by John Arnott (Member # 215) on :
Bonami cleanser first. I'd brush paint the flames first then airbrush the tips. Just like the old hot rods use to be done. Quick and easy. . . .have fun. . . . . take pictures John
Posted by Kevin McEvoy (Member # 4578) on :
I did this one with PPG urethanes, and Xotic kandy concentrates, base/clear. He got the buddy discount at $700. Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
i would be more inclined to go with kevins way of doin the flames....boats tend to have their hulls subjected to almost pressure cleaner water all the time. one shot and a airbush aint gona get it. short term it will be ok but constant water will take it the paint off. i would be more apt to clean with bon ami, mask of area of flames, lits sand with 600 tack rag it and spray paint the flames, same with highlights and then do a clear on the whole area.
Posted by Stan Yates (Member # 3176) on :
this is my first boat lettering job,and i just learned that the first thing u do when the boat is droped off is chock the wheels. as i was standing getting my supplies ready and i looked up to see the boat showly rolling away.luckly as i yelled at the boat to stop it did what i said.good boat i told it.
Posted by Kurt Silva (Member # 257) on :
I'm assuming it is a fiberglass boat? One shot will stick just fine with proper prep. And it will not come off with water pounding on the hull. The biggest problem you have is rock chips from being towed behind the truck, which chips up all the paint, not just the 1-Shot. Trust me I've done hundreds over the years, both glass and aluminum. A good wax and grease remover and a good water based cleaner is all I have ever used but the Bon Ami would add extra security if you are worried about adhesion. Go easy with the Bon Ami if it is a dark colored boat. I would lay out the flames with 1/4 or 1/8 tape and mask it up with application tape, or if you have a plotter, cut them out of gerber mask. Apply the paint with a foam roller and while still wet, airbrush in some fades at the tips and radiuses. If you do decide to to some sort of base-coat clear-coat appliction be sure that you charge for the extra labor and materials. Don't know the extent of your flame layout so can't help on price there, but I get $85.00 for a simple 1 color hand painted lsn # and add more for outlines and shadows.
Posted by Frank Magoo (Member # 3950) on :
Kurt;
Ever lost one to moving water? guess not from your response...moving water will "sand" your paint off faster than using 80 grit sandpaper...be careful where you position graphics on sides of boats...keepn' them out of moving water zone is paramount in longivity of paint...
Posted by Dale Weber (Member # 5673) on :
Yes, Frank is right...I lost a couple of lines and letters on drag boats in the 70's going 200 mph on the liquid quarter mile! On the flip side, I believe some of my 1-shot lettering was the first to break the sound barrier and land-speed record and didn't come off! (Richard Noble on the Black Rock desert about '96) ....Now if I could figure out why the stripes are falling off that Peterbilt...
Posted by Stan Yates (Member # 3176) on :
Well i ruffed up the surface with 6oo grit wiped the fiberglass sown with rapid prep and then used a projector to lay out the flames and lettering all the while lighting was flashing about. next day i brushed the flames with yellow and later came back with the airbrush and put in red and black for shadows. painted the registion # on and 3 names.I came our real good. what does the bon ami do that other cleaners dont and wher do u find the stugg.I know i did this job way too cheap $180 but this is my !st time with a boat rather liked do it and sugestion on pricing this stuff?
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
WAY TO CHEAP!!!!! projector work on a boat with all those different curves?
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Good to hear you had the confidence to jump in and do it Stan, would like to see the photos sometime.
The Bon Ami has just a tiny bit of abrasive in the formula, it will act like "ultra fine sanding" so, don't need it if you plan to sand already.
First thing to do when the boats in front of you, wash with Rapid Prep, this will remove any wax, grease, oils, silicon, to avoid sanding them down into surfase. Then I would mask, sand, clean again with Rapid Prep, tac with semi used tac rag, and start painting.
You don't want to wipe with real strong or harsh chemicals (should they enter the fiberglass gell finish, they will not come out till sometime later and probably damage paint or film), Lacquer thinner and acytone(sp) is notorious for soaking into fiberglass only to "outgass later" causing bonding problems for anything that had been painted or applied to surfase.
Roger
Posted by Gonzalo (Peewee)Curiel (Member # 3837) on :
Stan heres what i would do..Ditch the projector, Get some 18" white masking paper (auto paint store) Prep the boat as stated above.. Now tape the paper as tight as you can get it.. ( using the boat that is pictured above) you would lay it out along the length of the boat over the black stripe. Now take a "sharpie" and draw your flames out to your liking. The slip some "saral paper" under your design and lay the paper back down and trace the flames with a ball point pen. Now before pulling the masking paper off make some "registration" marks on any contour line or any other points on the boat that transfer to the other side. Now take the pattern and put it on the other side inside out and line up to you "registration" marks .. slip the saral back under it and repeat process..( you could also pounce it and chalk it but this is just as fast) I would charge about $800 in one shot with out line and the flames would not wrap around the front.. &$50 for the reg #'s Give me a call if you need to.. peewee
![[Rolling On The Floor]](graemlins/rolf.gif)