Last year I made a 4 X 8 18 oz. banner, recommended by the banner mfg., for a Sleep Inn near by. The wind distroyed it! I told the manager to cut some vent holes in it, they didn't. Now I have to make 2 more for them, how large of a vent hole should be in a banner of that size, and how many holes would be sufficent?
Thanks for your input!
Posted by Bob Rochon (Member # 30) on :
Rob,
I have been instructed by Banner material manufactureres over the years to NOT cut holes in the banner. Think about it the material is woven, thats what gives it the strength. So if you cut the weave, wouldn't you in fact be weakening the banner? not to mention now you have created perfect tear points with the "holes" or "flaps"
I'd use mesh material and have em printed.
Posted by Bruce & Deb Newton (Member # 2312) on :
Rob: We use a coffee can as a template and cut half circles (bottom half only). How many depends on the amount of copy. Try using bungee cords to give the banner(s) some spring in the wind.
Bob: Thanks for the heads up on what the manufacturer recommends. Mesh material, printed, makes sense but, the mesh banners that I've seen are sometimes hard to read, and get dirty awfully quick.
Bruce
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
I will try to be polite...use manners and NOT be too condescending . . . .
Cutting holes is entirely unnecessary and only serves to weaken and make the banner look cheap.
(My disdain for 'wind-slits' in banners is only equaled by my hatred of magnets . . . .)
If the banner failed it was due to one of, or both things combined:
*A cheap banner *A poor installation.
Here are some banner tips for your customers:
~Stop thinking we are trying to spend your money excessively. We know the proper weight needed for the location and duration of your banner.
~Banners should be attached taut at EVERY corner, and a couple of spots in between if they are over 10 or 12 feet long/wide, and always to very stable things. NEVER allow the bottom corners to flap loosely.
~Wire, or thin string is not proper attachment stuff.
~"Wrapping' the corners around posts is wrong.
~It is a severe and irrepairable problem when a banner is attached through a misplaced, stupidly cut, un-grommeted hole, regardless of the attachment method used. NO. Even a little hole cut in the hem will NOT be strong.
No, I will NOT come out and try to 'grommet' your banner back together again...and do NOT go out there and keep adding more and more string trying to tie it up with 9 million more knots.
Yes, we charge to spend 2 hours cutting down such banners and sharpening our knives and dulling our razors . . .
~Attaching the banner to weak or flexible things like tree branches, other banners, etc., will not do.
~ being the lightweight temporary-type signage that it is....we do NOT guarantee OR replace for free, banners destroyed by gale force winds, hurricaines, tornado's etc., nor damage due to unruly children hanging from it or any other severe attack of any kind, regardless of the installation method used. If you see adverse weather approaching and an evacuation of the area, consider taking the banner down until the storm has passed. When hung properly, removal is an EASY task.
~A banner is always a temporary promotional sign. It may not be considered permanent signage. When a banner is hanging in tatters, the promotion is over.
~Bungee cords ...NOT the cheap kind that the hooks bend on . . .(I prefer the black-rubber heavy duty kind) are the ideal installation method for banners. They allow the banner to 'bounce' and move, which also draws attention to it.
~A cheap banner will tear apart pretty quick no matter how well you install it . . .
~A good quality banner will eventually fall short of it's life by a poor installation method.
~A properly installed, attractively designed banner will bring lots of positive attention to any event or promotion!
But in general, Miss Manner's thinks that most all customer's pretty much suck at installing banners properly (as with most signs) and should leave it to the pros, or at least follow the directions ever so carefully in order to avoid shedding a negative image on the very business they are hoping to promote...not to mention the sign professional who created it . . .
(Edited for spelling and to TRY to soften condescending comments . . . . )
[ April 29, 2005, 03:16 PM: Message edited by: Sheila Ferrell ]
Posted by Steve Shortreed (Member # 436) on :
A search of past posts using "holes in Banners" brought up a bunch of past posts. Here's just one.
I remember some tests Butch Anton did on banners years ago. At the end of the day his results indicated pretty much what Scooter says in the above post.
"The method that makes sense to me is to have the steel cable along the top of the banner, and attach the bottom of the banner with bungee cords. The cords will stretch and "spill" the wind load when it gets too strong, and the rest of the time they'll keep the banner taught. Don't use bungees on the top though, just on the bottom."
Posted by Tim Whitcher (Member # 685) on :
Always use wind slits, never had a failure. Space about 30" apart. I have 3 x 30ft banners that I change the dates on every year that are over 5 years old. These go over-street for the whole month of March (windiest damn month of the year). Reinforced hems and corners on all of them, installed on suspended wires with carobiners.
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
I agree with Sheila. Wind slits are ugly and unnecessary. Butch Anton's article pointed out that the only time wind slits are necessary is when the windload on the banner is more than what the poles holding it will bear. Do you realize that on a 4 x 8 banner, the wind slits will only lessen the load equal to the square area of the openings? In other words, the windload will be lessened to that of about a 4 x 7.5 foot banner.
An 18 oz banner will take the wind if it is properly installed... TAUGHT! I made 35 4x8s in 18 oz for my city. All of them lasted at least 5 years, some are still up after 8. Not one banner failed until the mounting rods lossened up to allow the banner to start flaping.
It was the installation, NOT the lack of wind vents.
Posted by Rick Beisiegel (Member # 3723) on :
This was discussed at lenght recently. I think it was right here Check it out.
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