I was told that Easy Off oven cleaner would take one shot paint off of vehicles. After two sprays and a lot of rubbing there is a slight amount of progress but not much. Is there a better way? Thanks guys.
Rob
Posted by Bill Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
There was another post about a week ago on this.
Watch out with Easy Off on metallic surfaces. It MAY STAIN IT. Easy off in the yellow can is what works because it contains lye. The blue can is lye free and probably won't work. Caution needs to be taken to cover areas not involved with plastic and duct tape. I hate this process. It's caustic and messy, itchy stuff.
The best way is to wet sand with a block moving from 1000 grit to 1500 grit, and buffing the sanded area moving from coaser rubbing compound to fine.
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
2 sprays, but did ya wait any length of time to see the 1-Shot start to melt. Its not just a spray on wipe off thingie Posted by Jane Diaz (Member # 595) on :
the BEST way is to call a body shop!! Posted by Doug Fielder (Member # 803) on :
The best way I have found is Regular old Easy Off, not the lemon flavored stuff. Spray it on nice and foamy and let it sit for a few minutes, you will see the 1-shot wrinkle and start to melt, wait a few more minutes and start wiping off with paper towels. SAFETY is Key! First test a spot, old GM products didn't use clear coats, Vehicles that have been repainted may have problems too. Dark colored vehicles may fade and discolor. Second, wear 2 pairs of rubber gloves! This stuff will melt your skin! Third, rinse everything with plain water, it neutralizes the overspray. Fourth, watch where it runs to, you don't want this stuff running onto plastic mouldings. Use common sense, this is not in order! Be patient, and just think... It is a lot easier than removing baked on vinyl!
Posted by Robert Root (Member # 758) on :
Thanks for the replies. Seeing as it's my own truck and with the safety and mess factors, I am going to go with the sanding method. Thinking of making the truck two-tone anyway.
Rob
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
Easy Off likes heat. It has to be pretty warm outside for it to work. One of those plastic finger nail scrubbers helps things along. Let is sit on the surface for two or three minutes, scrub it wipe. Like Joey says two applications. Try to avoid more than two applications, staining is pretty common with multipile apps. Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
Rob . . .
I whole heartedly agree that some jobs should go to a body shop.
But there are just some jobs where EASY-OFF is just no problem to use and it's really not that big of a deal, but there are some cut & dried rules to follow:
1.The vehicle paint should be a factory finish, without a clear coat. TEST inconspicuously everything else.
2. I've tried the generic brands of Easy-Off. Forget it. The real EASY-OFF foams and hangs better on vertical surfaces.
3. Tape off all areas around the lettering that needs to come off, with PLASTIC (garbage bags work great) mainly the areas BELOW, where the stuff will drip directly onto the ground or newspaper, something to absorb the run-off.
4.Not MAY..it WILL stain or'darken' metallic paint . . .as in the case of another taxi cab I did sunday:
It had a dark aqua metallic NOT factory finish, but the body paint job had hardner it it....
After Easy-Offed, it was darker around the edges where the lettering had been . . .but I very carefuly applied only directly on the lettering itself..AND let it stay on about 15 - 20 minutes.
NOTE: The ONLY reason this was OK is because I was able to letter the driver's name in the exact area where the lettering was removed and used a fat outline around the name.
Because I was unable to do it Saturday, I went ahead and did it Sunday, (since this guy would have riders waitng on him at 5am Monday).
I have more than 20 cabs to remove a script 'EASTSIDE CAB' off of...on every one this is going to involve:
Both driver doors, and all the way across the top of the trunk lid. There's also other copy that won't change on them and has to be protected during the process.
This is the second cab so far since, the guys got the word they would have to drive under their individual names.
This is the millionth time I've ever used Easy-Off to remove lettering.
Thought you might like to know how long it takes.....I got home from church @12:30pm,, ate and changed clothes, started the cab about 1:15 with a silver dollar size test and started taping off...etc. The whole job was removed AND relettered with his name by 5:30 pm.... 'Calvin Strong'(and the outline), , including removing and re-lettering his APSC numbers (total qty of 20- 1 1/4" casuals on both pass. doors, and including me coming in the house and kickin' back on the couch for about 30 minutes, giving the letterng time to tack-up a little before the outline)
Most these guys are NOT gonna gonna go to a body shop, but they know, according to their vehicle paint jobs this could become a possibility. Since that possiblitity exists, they have nothing to lose by me tryin' the easy-Off FIRST. If it ruins the door, it can be sanded down and painted here, ot at the body shop, (although I've opted out of any body work in the cabbies price list)
ANYWAY: Heres tips continued:
5. You know those 'wads' of plastic that you can get for washing dishes?? They're kind of like the same 'mesh' material that fruit bags are made of. They come in packs of 3 usually, and will NOT scratch the vehicle surface, but have enough 'umph' to 'cut' the softened paint.
6. Use rubber or latex gloves - rinse often...Keep a bucket or large bowl of water handy. Easy-Off is basically acid. It will burn your skin. As you remove glops of paint & easy-off be sure to have a garbge can handy to chunk the mess into. I use paper towels to sop up glops and rinse and shake out the little plastic 'scrubber' often.
*Make sure you dispose of the plastic and rag junk safely so kids can't get into it. The kids are NOT allowed on the shop, or anywhere around me when I'm cleanin' vehicles . . or the oven . . . Save the scrubber and the bucket...you can reuse them 'til they're misplaced . . .
7. Assuming you've done a small 15 -20 minute test, don't be afraid to let the Easy-Off do it's job. It works better in warm weather. Don't use it DIRECTLY in the sun though...dries TOO fast. I have left it on up to 30 minutes, but usually not over 15 or 20.
8. Repeat in tuff spots if you want. . .but I have found that when wiping it off after it has gotten the majority of the lettering, the residual Easy-Off film combined with acetone or thinner removed the rest of the spots. Some times I use my finger nail or the edge of a plastic bottle top for those last little tuff spots.
9. I always clean the whole area afterwards with what ever I have on hand 409...Windex . . .whatever. Get it squeaky clean before sending it off or relettering.
(I can hear people groaning and freaking out....ACETONE>>??? LAQUER THINNER!!!????)
I'm just sayin' it works for me is all . . .
BTW: Did'ja swap a little paint with another car in a light scrape?? Laquer thinner will remove it . . .
Like I said, , lots of disclaimers abound in these cases, and it's NOT my favorite thing to do... I don't go lookin' for it . . .I always warn the customer of the possibilities and about the 'ghosts' . . .but, on average, this is an 'easy' job once you get the hang of it.
Good luck Rob with whatever you decide to do.
Posted by William Bass (Member # 4929) on :
Sheila (and others),
Easy Off is the very opposite of an acid, it is called a "base". Acids and bases are exact opposites but both can burn you badly.
Bases, like easy-off or bleach, feel slippery when they get on you. Soap is a weak base. Bleach is a strong base. Lye (easy-off) is an extremely strong base. They all feel slippery, though, and the powerful ones can burn you (just like powerful acids can burn you--not much difference between an acid burn and a base burn, really).
Most (but not all) household cleaners are basic: 409, windex, ammonia, bleach, baking soda, soap, shampoo.
Water cannot neutralize acids or bases, it can only dilute them more and more. Bases can be NEUTRALIZED with acids. Only do this to RESIDUES of cleaners, though. After cleaning with a basic (basic means opposite of acidic) cleaner, rinse thoroughly, and then apply a mild acid (white vinegar is best, you can even dilute the vinegar 50/50). Wipe, then rinse thoroughly again. The base residue should be completely neutralized.
I do this whenever I use a strong cleaner and get some on my hands (like bleach or easy-off). No matter how much you rinse, you're hands will feel "slippery," because there is a residue that the water can't get rid of. Rub a little vinegar on your hands and rinse again; instantly the slipperiness goes away! It also prevents the basic cleaner(basic is opposite of acidic) residue from continuing to bother my skin, which it could do even after a good rinsing.
To add 409 (a base) to easy-off residue (another base) will not help anything and could make matters worse (but if you've rinsed real well, you've probably prevented this).
It shouldn't harm the vehicle paint at all if some vinegar is applied to the areas that the easy-off was AFTER the easy-off has been thoroughly rinsed. But, like with everything else, it should be tested on a small area first. (Maybe do a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar in a spray bottle for the cars). I would definitely do it do my arms and hands after I've rinsed them thoroughly.
The dark "stain" you're seeing left after this MIGHT be due to the fact that the one-shot has been protecting the underlying vehicle paint from the elements somewhat. Vehicle paint is "stained" pretty badly under vinyl (even though no harsh chemicals were used to remove it), but that is really the vehicle's original color, everything not under the vinyl faded a bit, is what really happened.
Acid/base neutralizations are powerful reactions. The stronger the chemicals the more powerful the reaction. Great care should always be used. And this method should be used ONLY for residues of strong bases left on surfaces after a good, thorough rinsing.
To see how violent a reaction can be, put a tablespoon of vinegar in a deep glass...maybe a mason jar. Then add a teaspoon of baking soda. Watch what happens! Dont do this over the carpet. Make sure you have plenty of paper towels handy because sometimes it makes a mess. Vinegar and baking soda are WEAK acids and bases neutralizing each other. Bleach and Lye are STRONG bases. NEVER just mix vinegar in with them. ONLY apply vinegar to RESIDUES LEFT AFTER RINSING.
Now, as I'm no expert on paint and have never done this on vehicles; so, if someone knows this is NOT a good idea (i.e., to neutralize easy-off on vehicles by rinsing with water, applying vinegar, and rinsing with water again), then, by all means, no one do it.
Finally, easy-off fumes are dangerous...use it only in a very well-ventilated area.
Sorry for the chemistry lesson guys. I thought it might be helpful a bit, though.
--William
Posted by William Bass (Member # 4929) on :
I can offer no opinions as to which is the best method for one-shot removal...this is just a suggestion for those who do use easy-off for the process.
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
Well, William . . .thanx for the science lesson . . .I should have been aware of the vinegar ...as it's a common household cleaner and good for all kinds of things . . . but as mentioned easy-Off 'acts' like acid in the skin & paint.
The 'darkened' area on metallic fnishes IS directly from the overspray which in the case I described I was able to keep that within 1/2' or less around the letter edge.
The guy was very happy with it as I saved him a bundle on body work on 2 car doors and an entire trunk lid. These fellas are very faithful to me even tho' I charge them much more than the local crack-head sign painter, everyone of them brings their cabs to me for new lettering, touch-ups or changes.
I realize this, for some reason, seems to be a highly controversial issue and shunned by many. I can honestly say that there have been a few vehicles I sent to the body shop . . .either I did'nt have time to fool with it, it was clear-coated or to expensive of a vehicle. I reckon I would NOT Easy-Off a Lamberghini . . .LOL. All I can say is, I was taught this by both men who got me in this biz and I've never done any irrepairable damage with it . . .not even in the oven . . . . (lol)
[ February 09, 2005, 08:45 AM: Message edited by: Sheila Ferrell ]
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Robert,
George and Joey are right about needing 2 applications and heat helping out. Wherever the paint is applied heavier will be the most stubborn to remove.
The downside really kicks in when working on older vehicles or surfaces that have oxidized over time, or lower grade auto finishes like equipment enamels . The Easy Off will tend to break these finishes down and leave noticeable stains, and by all means, keep it away from aluminum finishes (believe me, you don't want to wreck any gas tanks on a Peterbuilt...ask me why I know this...lol).
my 2 .18653909896 cents Rapid
Posted by William Bass (Member # 4929) on :
Hey Sheila,
Well, I've never done the one-shot removal thing, (I hope I made that clear), so I really wasn't sure about the stains. It was just a thought that it might be like the ghosting that occurs under vinyl letters. I can definitely believe that easy-off could stain a vehicle's paint. It's a tremendously corrosive chemical.
I mainly use the acid/base neutralization whenever I get a strong basic cleanser (remember "basic" is a chemistry word and means the opposite of "acidic")like bleach or easy-off on my hands. You will probably notice a "slippery" feel to the residue that rinsing with water can hardly remove. That means that the cleaner is leaving a residue on your hands (or vehicle, maybe) that can continue to "burn" if not neutralized. Wash your hands with a little vinegar and rinse again, and the residue will be instantly neutralized; the "slippery" feeling will go away, which means that the easy-off or bleach cannot continue to "burn" your hands at all. So, even if you choose not to do this to your vehicles, I'd definitely try it on my hands after a removal job, just to keep the burning to a minimum.
I'm afraid my last post had so many "warnings and disclaimers" it wasn't a very clear post, but I'd hate to think I made someone think they could fool around with these chemicals without care; thus the convuluted post.
AbE: Easy-off a Lambhorgini...LOL! I don't reckon I would either!
--William
[ February 09, 2005, 06:42 PM: Message edited by: William Bass ]
Posted by Frank Magoo (Member # 3950) on :
Did anyone in this or the other post pay attention to the best way to remove one-shot? NO! which is obvious from this one.
OK, one more time; Rapid Remover, it is made to do just that, remove. Try it, mask off fuel(not gas)tanks on Pete's to keep residue off of them, as we already know,RR stains polished aluminum; soak area w/RR and wait a bit for it too work and squeegee off and wash w/water. No muss, no fuss, no chemical reactions(over 40 yrs. in business and never seen any of those disasters happen mentioned earlier by non-painter type)to worry about, and a very lite polish restores finish to original condition. Or, stay with popular flow and end up painting doors.
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
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