A customer wants their sign to hang/swing, I presume, from an existing arm or crosspiece. The sign is to be 3x4 and they don't want sandblasted. I'm afraid .080 alum will be too flimsy and MDO will not last very long. I would use NU-Alum but the sign will have a fancy shape and the edge cap wouldn't go around it. Alumalite would be too light and flimsy. What would you suggest? Thanks
Posted by Tasmus (Member # 445) on :
At 3x4 I would recommend 3 or 4 MM Dibond. It shapes well and is a solid rigid substrate, and it'll last forever....although I have done the same thing in MDO....you just have to seal the edges and properly prime it.
Posted by Belinda Palmer (Member # 4628) on :
Polycarbonate (lexan) easy to cut. Almost bullet proof in 3/16" or thicker.
Posted by TransLab (Member # 470) on :
I don't like Lexan for out door signs, while it is indestructible it yellows badly. I do like dibond but I'm curious as to how Barry finishes the edges.
Posted by TransLab (Member # 470) on :
I don't like Lexan for out door signs, while it is indestructible it yellows badly. I do like dibond but I'm curious as to how Barry finishes the edges.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Thanks for the replies. Would 4mm (slightly more than 1/8'')Dibond be any more ridgid than .080 aluminum? Does it come any thicker.
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
Wayne...
I don't agree about the mdo not lasting. I would use 3/4", and seal the edges like others on this board do with Titebond2 glue, then prime with oilbase primer.I would use a U-shaped clamp to hang with bolts going all the way through the faces. I drill all my holes, then prime and glue inside the holes as well.
I think you need the extra weight to keep the sign from swinging too wildly in the wind. Now you could take dibond and cut it about an inch or so shorter all the way around the shape, and glue that to each face, it would give you a more dimensional look....
just my 2cents.....
Posted by Laura Butler (Member # 1830) on :
A word of caution about hanging signs. In high winds they could rip off and become kites and then who takes care of the liability if someone gets hurt.
I always talk my customer into letting us put a small hook in and chain it at the bottom of the sign to the sign posts. That way there isn't a lot of movement.
Posted by Jerry VanHorn (Member # 4704) on :
The way I do MDO is after the shape is cut I use a round over bit in my hand router and 'ease' or radius the edges. Two coats of primer and two coats of OneShot and its ready to go. I figure when the edges don't have the sharp corner the paint will not 'break' and let moisture in. Has worked well for me in Ohios diverse climate changes.
Posted by Philip Steffen (Member # 2235) on :
Like the Dibond. It is light weight compared to the MDO though. I usually don't worry too much about the edge- its black core works for me and the face is painted or sheeted.
Posted by Dave Hunt (Member # 4637) on :
I would prefer to use di-bond 'cause it's quicker and easier than MDO. HOWEVER, as Jeff mentioned I think it would be to light and flop around on chains like a kite in the wind.
The heavier MDO will not fly around as much. We did a sign of similar dimensions this summer. I used MDO and edge sealed with Titebond2 and primed and painted.
We kept the chaines it hung from short (I think 3 or 4 links) and it actually doesn't move all that much.
Posted by Jerry VanHorn (Member # 4704) on :
This is how I prefer to install a sign if it needs to swing in the wind. Chains allow too much side to side movement and let the sign whip.
[ December 09, 2004, 04:32 PM: Message edited by: Jerry VanHorn ]
