This is topic another newbie question - transfering graphics to paint mask in forum Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Liz Joseph (Member # 5189) on :
 
Hi again,

I hope I have the terminology correct, here's what I'm trying to do. I do not own a vinyl cutter yet (it's on my Christmas wish list) and was wondering how to go about getting my graphics transferred from printed paper to paint mask so that I can then cut it using *ho-hum* an X-acto knife. (Does that make sense?)

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Do you have any opinions on what type of cutter I should be looking at when the time comes? Is there a brand preference? It is my intention to only cut paint mask at this time, not sticky graphics. Not sure what my budget is yet, should I buy new or used?

Thanks in advance,
Liz
 
Posted by Kissymatina (Member # 2028) on :
 
Do you have a particular software you're planning on running?

New. The warranty, tech support and safety of buying something that you know isn't broke before you get it is worth more than the little bit of money you'd save by buying used.
 
Posted by Lotti Prokott (Member # 2684) on :
 
Just use good old tracing paper. [Smile]
 
Posted by W. R. Pickett (Member # 3842) on :
 
...and good ol' carbon paper too....

... And you could perforate (pounce) the (enlarged to size) paper art, and go (rub) over it w. a sock full of (colored) powder. (pouncing).
 
Posted by fayette pivoda (Member # 4339) on :
 
Sometimes I have spray glued (3M #77)the pattern right to the masking (frisket, trans tape, vinyl masking material or contact paper) and then cut through the both of them. Afterwards, wipe the remaining paper pattern parts with a rag barely damp with mineral spirits and it'll fall right off. If you need a second pattern, do a rubbing of the cut masking.

Hope this helps
 
Posted by Jon Butterworth (Member # 227) on :
 
We use Fayette's trick all the time ... especially on metal 8x4s that come with a protective plastic film.

Another method is to copy the artwork onto acetate and project onto the surface and cut directly into the mask without marking up.

Very quick and easy. [Smile]
 
Posted by Tony Ray Mattingly (Member # 469) on :
 
Here is my question, if you are taking the time to "transfer" the item. why not "transfer" right to the project you are painting? I did business for a long time with a overhead projector and a printer. Type up what you want with the font you want, print it on a tranparancy, project it, trace it with a stablio pencil,then paint it.
 
Posted by Liz Joseph (Member # 5189) on :
 
Thank you all, now I have plenty of options to get me by until I can make the leap to a cutter.

I'm not sure what software I'll be using, but right now I'm using CorelDRAW 10 to mess about with. Any suggestions?

Tony, are you suggesting painting INSIDE the lines? Yikes... don't know if I could do that yet.

-Liz
 
Posted by Dan Streicher (Member # 4515) on :
 
find a local sign person and have them cut it on their plotter until you can afford to buy one, then your investment is very low and you can build your business
 
Posted by Catharine C. Kennedy (Member # 4459) on :
 
I have a Roland Stikka 15 as a cutter, and find that it does a great job for what I need- prices run from 600 to 900, depending where you go (shop around!)
 
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
 
Another tool of the past is the pantograph. It was used for re-sizing an image. I prefer the freedom of an opaque projector though. No need for transparencies, you could use a page still in a book usually, but more darkness is required than an overhead projector.

A pounce pattern is good if you require doing more than one copy.

There is the age old method of drawing a grid on the drawing and a corresponding scaled grid on the sign and transposing it.

There is the possibility of emailing the art to someone that can vectorize it and cut it for you, but you have little control that way.
 
Posted by Artisan Signs (Member # 3146) on :
 
Hi Liz, as others have suggested, try printing the design onto a transparency, and using an overhead projector, project it right onto the project (that was a lot of projects in there). As far as software goes, Corel is the industry standard, and can do most anything. Stick with Corel!
Good luck.
Bob
 
Posted by Lotti Prokott (Member # 2684) on :
 
Liz, you can run a search on plotters right here on this site. This has been discussed many times and you will find a lot of information in older posts.
I use Corel 10 and cut directly from it, saves on buying a separate program, but that has been argued about, too.
The search link is in the top right corner of this page. Good luck [Smile]
 


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