You know how if you spray-paint anywhere near it in the shop, it gets over-spray 'cling' . . .?
You know how this is USUALLY NOT a big-deal 'cause it wipes right off . . . .?
WELL.
I did some sprayin' (with small airless sprayer) several feet away from the coro-panel sign, which was standing vertically on my art board, and is nearly completed.
Later I noticed the stupid static over-spray which just kind'a looks like dust all over the panel . . .BUT when I went to wipe it off AS I HAVE several times in the past . . . . .
NOTHING IS MOVING IT!!!
So far I have tried:
~Windex ~Mineral Spirits ~2 brands of Mid-temp reducer ~Denatured alcohol AND ~LAQUER THINNER . . .which fades it only slightly with a ton of rubbing!!
Is there something new about coro faces that I have failed to hear about?????????
PS: I'm on my way to buy and try ACETONE next . .
[ November 02, 2004, 04:00 PM: Message edited by: Sheila Ferrell ]
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Hiya Sheila, Rapid Remover! Great stuff. If you catch paint before it fully cures, it should take it off. I've used it several times to take off my oops's and repainted without a problem.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
Posted by Curtis hammond (Member # 2170) on :
Flame thrower should do it
Posted by Robert Lambie (Member # 4258) on :
use metholated spirits, (the purple stuff) you should be able to pick it up at any good hardware or paint store.
Posted by Gene Golden (Member # 3934) on :
Sheila, Straight 90% Alcohol from the Pharmacy. Ails MANY ills. 70% won't touch it, above 90% won't help either. A little BonAmi if you need it, but I don't think you will. Buy it anyway, great for many other purposes. Try ammonia first before you run out to buy stuff.
[ November 02, 2004, 05:22 PM: Message edited by: Gene Golden ]
Posted by TransLab (Member # 470) on :
If you think coroplast is bad for static, try laminating reflective onto dibond sheets... I've taken shocks that I've felt right down to the root of my... .
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...toes
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
Do you think Rapid Tac, and Mentholated spirits is stronger than the laquer thinner . . .??
I'm likin' Cu'tis' idea a lot.
BUT I have vinyl and a most of hand-painted graphic in it already . . . .
ooooooooooo...I HATE it when I assume stuff will always work as it always has before . . . .
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
Sheila . . . .do you think double postin' is necessary . . . . . .
[ November 02, 2004, 10:05 PM: Message edited by: Sheila Ferrell ]
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
Do you think triple postin' is necessary!!!!
[ November 02, 2004, 10:06 PM: Message edited by: Sheila Ferrell ]
Posted by Gene Golden (Member # 3934) on :
Sheila, Call me - I have another idea that's too involved to type.
Posted by Robert Lambie (Member # 4258) on :
not sure.. but i have a spray booth and somtimes forget to lift panels ive leaned against the walls waiting to be sprayed. one wipe with meths and it lifts the overspray every time. doesnt effect the plastic or vinyl also.
its cheap and can be picked up in very small bottles if you only need a little. works excellant for wiping down boards/vehicles prior to lettering also.
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
Sheila Darlin, My body-man son (panel banger to you, Mr. Lambie) recommends 3M rubbing compound. I would try Finesse, because it is a very mild one. Then "worsh" with Rapid Prep or Windex. The Koro Kween Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Sheila..Can't give you any more advice than what others have.
BUT!!!!
I bet it won't ever happen again????
It only took one incident for me to remember to move EVERYTHING out of my spray booth, and that was when I was just doing a small fade just using the airbrush.
Also....draping plastic or something over the panels still won't protect em!!! Move em out!!!!!!
Posted by Gavin Chachere (Member # 1443) on :
Sheila,go to autozone or wherever it is you buy auto paint supplies and buy a bar of overspray clay,sometimes you find an aerosolized foam one now,mostly made by a company called Claymagic...little bit of mildly soapy warm water and a few rubs with the clay and you'll take it all off without damaging or fading the backround,rinse to clean up...you'll spend more time cleaning compund out of the grooves and dont bet that you wont dull the surface where you do it.
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
I guess what really freaked me out was that this sort of 'stained' rather than left 'dust' as it usually does . . . . . .
The culprits, Gene has helped me to identify, as the likely cause of this . . .disaster are a combination of coincidental events as follows . . .
1. I kind'a seldom do coroplast signs
2.I don't ALWAYS use automotive paints for spraying, and sometimes, don't even use hardner in automotive paints either . . . which is why other over-spray static was easier to remove from an occasional coro panel . . .
3. At some point and time, like when jupiter aligns with mars, . . . or say, when there's an eclipse. . . it was inevitable that I was going to have a coroplast sign on the board and be spraying hardner-automotive in the shop simultaneously . . .
At least this is the only 'splaination I can fig'er . . .
Dave . . . you can bet I will not be so lasidaisical about it again . . .
Thanx again for all the great tips!!!
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Rapid Remover, as stated above.
I know, new ideas are slow to pass, but, when you can have it on hand "free of charge" just to try in situations like these, well, WHY NOT ? e-mail your street address Sheila, then you will know for sure ! mail@rapidtac.com
Roger
Posted by Manuel Rodriguez (Member # 3930) on :
I 2ND THE CLAYMAJIC MOTION OR 3M GREASE & WAX REMOVER MIXED WITH ALOT OF ELBOW GREASE ITS MILDER THAN REDUCER I'M SUPRIZED YOU DON'T HAVE AN APPLE SIZED PEEP HOLE WHERE YOU USED THE LAQUER THINNER BUT I'M SURETHAT KIND OF STUFF ONLY HAPPENS TO ME.