I HAVE RECENTLY BEEN TRYING TO DO SOME PRE-PAINTS AND I HAVE RUN INTO SEVERAL PROBLEMS...ONE OF THEM BEING THAT THE PAINT WANTS TO COME OFF WITH THE STENCIL. I AM BASICALLY LOOKING FOR SOME TIPS FROM SOMEONE WHO HAS BEEN SUCCESSFUL WITH PRE-PAINTS. WHAT TYPE OF PRIMER WORKS BEST? HOW LONG SHOULD THE PAINT CURE BEFORE THE STENCIL IS APPLIED? IS 1-SHOT THE BEST PAINT TO USE? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU.
Posted by Gene Golden (Member # 3934) on :
Lisa, A little more info would help, and I know you're upset, but you don't have to shout. I assume you are working on a wooden or HDU sign to be sandblasted and you have pre-painted the board so you can blast through and keep the letters painted?
[ October 04, 2004, 04:04 PM: Message edited by: Gene Golden ]
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
If it's wood, prime first with FirstStep. Spray on (thinned) one thin coat coat. Let dry for a couple of days. Sand raised grain with 150 or 220 paper(this also gives the paint more "tooth".
Topcoat with acrylic latex or oneshot in thin coats. Let it cure for 5 to 7 days (very important). Use medium tack stencil. Keep your blaster nozzle moving(very inportant). Don't allow the stencil to burn. Use about 90-100psi pressure(very important).
Same proceedure for HDU....EXCEPT: Make sure the HDU is clean. spray all dust off with a strong stream from a water hose. Let dry overnight.(some brands don't have the static and don't need this, an air hose is sufficient) For primer, apply FSC 88 WB (waterbased) Use at least two coats or until desired build is achieved for smoothness. Sand with 220, 300, 400 grit wet dry paper. You can wet sand (much faster) As above, let dry for 5 to 7 days. Use 75-80psi
There may be other methods that work but if you follow ALL of these steps you shouldn't have any more problems. Wish someone had explained it to me in the beginning.
Posted by Lisa Waters (Member # 3716) on :
Thanks for the advice! Hopefully it will turn out better next time.
Posted by W. R. Pickett (Member # 3842) on :
...By "pre paint" do you mean "cut (a mask) and fill" ?
...If so, the background should be well dry before masking. After cutting and weeding, go over the exposed BG paint w. an abrasive pad. Fill in w. paint and weed while wet. After it's dry touch up any bleeds.
...This technique works well with one shot or water based house paint.
Posted by Lisa Waters (Member # 3716) on :
By "pre-paint" I mean...priming & painting first and then putting your stencil on and sandblasting.
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Try the term "prep" more people wil know what you are talking about.
If you are painting dura ply and using enamels use a good "Block-out" it comes in white only Chromatic or Ronan is about all thats left.
Put on a good coat let it set overnite and lightly scuff with 220 or a scotch pad then apply your finish coat (One Shot or whatever)one of your problems may be that you are using too agressive a mask.
If you are hand cutting your mask use American Biltright Medium tack.
If you are using a vinyl mask make sure it is a low tack or you'll just keep pulling paint off!
Posted by Gene Golden (Member # 3934) on :
Monte and WR, It was referring to prepainting a cedar blank before blasting the letters, and the subsequent peeling.
