Otay every one here is my ? I'm new to the paint thing. I have a person that wants me to repaint a signboard and I dont know what kind of paint to use. I do vinyl letters and graphics and never use paint but more ppl are wanting the redo jobs and not new signs. Someone told me that I could use regular house enamel paint from walmart for the BG is that ok for vinyl?
The signs is on a good sing board with paint and vinly on it. Just need to repaint the back side for the guy.
I have tried latex paint before and it didnt work well, I was told that any good oil enamel paint would work good for BG on signs.
Thanks
[ August 27, 2004, 05:47 PM: Message edited by: John Thomas ]
Posted by Gene Golden (Member # 3934) on :
John, I always try to sell an aluminum cover-up. It eliminates problems with paint over a sign that you have no history with. Is the paint peeling? Is it a good board e.g., MDO plywood? Are there vinyl letters on the sign now? How large is it?
Posted by Rick Beisiegel (Member # 3723) on :
Hi John, and WELCOME TO LETTERVILLE!
Kind of a broad question. Many prefer One Shot, but it depends on what you are painting. Sherwin Williams is popular too for other reasons. May want to rename your post to something like "HEY YOU PAINT GURUS...I NEED HELP!" Just a thought.
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
I use 1-Shot Lettering OR bulletin enamel for backgrounds. I don't like to stick vynull onto a latex background, because I have experienced problems with adhesion in the past.
Sand the old sign with some 180 grit paper, blow off with an air gun, then prime with a good exterior latex primer (after puttying any bad spots with exterior wood putty) Scuff with 220 grit paper then add the topcoat. I dump a pizza-pan sized puddle for a 4x8 then roll with a foam roller. Do not over-roll. Make the last pass with just the weight of the roller to pop any air bubbles.
Let dry at least 1 full day, then apply vynull grafix or hand-paint. Will you be replicating the same design? if so, a digital photo is a good aid, as well as making a pounce pattern from butcher paper wet with turps till it is transparent. This has to be done before repainting the old sign!
After all this work, be sure to charge accordingly. As Gene suggested, an aluminum face lift is always an excellent option. Love....jill
Posted by John Thomas (Member # 2854) on :
Thanks for the info. Thanks Rick for the change also.
Hey I have tried to get them to change to the alum sign coverups but they dont want them. I have never done any of the paint or repainting of signs so not sure what would be a good charge for it, any help would be great.
The sign is not a redo for the grapichs part just have to redo/repaint the sign and put on new letters.
I know everyone likes the 1shot paints I just wanted to see if I could find a differnt type of pain for the job. I was told by one vinyl company that any oil based enamel paint would work but I want to find out from the real sign ppl.
[ August 27, 2004, 05:53 PM: Message edited by: John Thomas ]
Posted by Jason Davie (Member # 2172) on :
I like to use Benjamin Moore Impervo Oil Based Enamel.. I use it the same way that jill descibed.. The only problem with this paint is that I guess they are discontinueing because of the epa so either stock up or don't fall in love with it.. Hope it helps
Posted by fayette pivoda (Member # 4339) on :
When I hear a customer say 're-paint', I generally think they're looking to not spend much money, I just as soon let the job pass by as repaints are more work than new stuff.
And for most flat work, I've never found repaints (especially as far as MDO or any 'wood product' substrate goes) to last near as long as the original so I especially shy away from them. By the time you've removed the sign to redo it, or even if you redo them on site - as in hauling all your equipment there and setting up and working off of ladders and the such - you've already surpassed the cost of new substrate.
What you save in material is easily made up in the labor needed to redo a sign, nasty laborous tasks too, and consider when you sand an existing sign, there's too good a chance that it is lead based enamel your sanding and the dust from such is a most nasty substance to be producing. If breathing that don't scare ya then use that fact to sell the customer new substrate.
Good luck to ya!
Posted by Myra Grozinger (Member # 327) on :
I agree with all the answers just about. ESPECIALLY the alu coverup. The way I sell it to my customers is: It is LESS expensive than for me to take my valuable time and put the old sign into an acceptable like new condition. And it will look completely new and be more durable. Then I shut up and let them think.
Go to Estimatesoftware.com, and watch the brand new little video of how to price a sign with it. It will give you an idea of what will have to go into pricing it. Without knowing more of what you are going to end up doing, or what's involved in the re-painting, unless I missed a clear description I doubt anyone here could help you in pricing the job at this point.
Posted by Bob Stephens (Member # 858) on :
Tell him sure no problem you can repair the old sign but a new one will be cheaper and better in the long run.
Labor is most always more expensive than materials.
Posted by Joe Rees (Member # 211) on :
I second the Benjamin Moore Impervo Oil Based Enamel. (Good old Rustoleum will do too). If your old sign is just faded but not peeling, you can really just wash and paint. That stuff goes on great with foam rollers - 2 thin coats beats 1 heavy coat.
Posted by John Thomas (Member # 2854) on :
Thanks for all the help. Great to have a place for info when you need it.
Thanks
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Often I see paint flaking right down to the board and it's clear that the primer failed. Seems like the UV penetrates the whites and destroys all. How can you sand and repaint when some of what remains is doomed to shortly fail? Why put good effort onto bad surface.
In days long ago, we used to see paint fade or top coat failure wen the primer remained solid. These were the days for repaints. In today's economy, an hour of labor to save a board costs more than a new board. The old one is good for wall sheathing or an ugly dog house.
If the sign is not peeling though, repaint with solvent based products. The biggest hassle you'll run into is removing the vinyl and adhesive on the board and getting it ready to paint. Heat gun, Rapid Remover, Elbow Grease, paper towels, fan blowing, and in an hour you're ready to paint!
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
You have so many variables on somethin' like this . . . . . .
There are so many famous last words on these jobs:
"That's ok . . I don't need to see it . . . .I can do it for ___$$"
Then famous last thoughts:
"Ha! All I gotta do . . . . . "
Anyway, depending on the quality of the existing paint, and the fact that I only "sped-red" some of the replies, I'm with Gene & Bob.
*But you did say you just needed to re-paint the BACKSIDE . . . . .why? Is it bare?? If so, don't fergit, it needs primer first . . . .
PS: Never forget simply WASHING a sign. I always ask people to do this before I come give them a quote on a re-do. Many times they call back and say they washed it and it looks fine and I don't have to go.
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