My client is sponsoring a homework club for the next 5 years at their local high school. They want a fancy sign (that their graphic designer layed out) put up in front of the school. So I will have to digitally print this 4'x8' one sided sign.
My biggest concern is vandelism and how to prevent or recover from it when it happens. I make no promises to the customer, but want to help as much as I can. I don't think there is a jack-knife and baseball bat proof laminate, but there should be a magic-marker proof one.
Is a Scothcal print the right way to go? Mount it onto 1/2 PVC and then mount to posts.
Or is a Soljet print with some durable laminate better.
There is one place called Fossil that bakes prints onto formica so it is as durable as a countertop, but as pricey as diamonds. BUT, 20years outdoors they say!!!!
WHO does the scotchprints here in Letterville. How much for one 4x8' print, file ready?
[ August 16, 2004, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: Philip Steffen ]
Posted by Kimberly Zanetti (Member # 2546) on :
Screw a 4 x 8 sheet of clear plexi over it. Then if that gets damaged you can just change out the plexi and not the whole sign.
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Hiya Philip, Kim's headed in the right direction. I would laminate the print to the back side of clear polycarbonate. If you cover the print with some sort of lens, you have to be conserned with condensation between the lens and the print. The only way to avoid it is to leave a gap between the lens and the print. Not an easy job on a large sheet. I buy my prints through 21st Century Signs. They should be in the database.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
Posted by Gene Golden (Member # 3934) on :
Philip, There are Graffiti coatings that are considered "sacrificial". These coatings are brushed on, and if they are marked upon, a special solution will remove it without damaging your sign. Problem is... I don't know if the solvent will remove the print! I also found this link which may help: Solar Gard In my experience, I've found drugstore brand 90-91% alcohol to be very effective in removing most graffiti and spray paint, without a lot of damage to surfaces (70% won't budge it and 99% won't either). You sometimes have to apply something to "recondition" the sign afterwards, but that's to be expected. I've done a lot of graffiti abatement in my years. It's amazing what kids WON'T do graffiti on. They seem to have an innate respect for signs if they are done well and look good. Most of them are "artists" and seem to respect that. The occasional "tagger" may mark with Magic Marker, but 90% alcohol and a touch of BonAmi do wonders. In my Baltimore life, I was on the Governor's Graffiti Task Force, for whatever that's worth. I was even involved in finding the names of the taggers in some cases and identifying them in order for the police to get them to pay restitution. The same way we signmakers have a style, so do the taggers.
Posted by Jerry VanHorn (Member # 4704) on :
Phil
I could supply you with the print. Our printer is 30" so we could do (2) 24" x 96" prints with a .5" overlap. If you're interested give me a call at 937-465-0595.
Posted by Scott Pagan (Member # 2507) on :
we have a 3M Scotchprint 2000, as well as grand format inkjet printers (see our webpage listed below). there are "graffiti-guard" laminates.
Posted by Scott Daniels (Member # 3455) on :
A few years ago, I worked on a product (EXCELAR) that used an overlam from Dupont. It is called Tedlar. I have seen it available from a few suppliers. It will withstand solvents such as MEK, alcohols, toluene, paint thinners, etc. We promoted it as a graffiti proof overlam. Unfortunately, it won't stand up to a knife or baseball bat!
Posted by Felix Marcano (Member # 1833) on :
Hey isn't tedlar the stuff they put on signgold?
Posted by Jean-Claude Theriault (Member # 966) on :
I think Laird Plastics still makes a clear film that some transit systems put on the windows of buses and subways that just peels off and gets replaced when vandalised.
