We are thinking of adding airbrushing to our bag of tricks. What vinyl is going to stand up the best? Cast or calendered? Can we use colored vinyl or does it have to be clear? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Posted by Kissymatina (Member # 2028) on :
Cast
Calendared is generally your intermediate vinyl for shorter-term use with cast being high-performance.
Posted by Mike Palombo (Member # 3072) on :
I've had good success airbrushing on calendered vinyl. I've mainly used urethanes for airbrushing and then coating it with Frog Juice. I haven't had any complaints.
Posted by Ian Stewart-Koster (Member # 3500) on :
Welcome! Any colour! Cast, but for how long do you want it to last?
[ July 19, 2004, 10:16 AM: Message edited by: Ian Stewart-Koster ]
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
Mike, I have used a "redneck airbrush" (AKA Krylon spray-bomb) on cast vynull. Always do it BEFORE weeding. Plot it, then with a Sharpie make a ruff outline to indicate where the copy is. Spray away. Some folks use a vynull primer made by 1-Shot. Some folks scuff with a Scotchbrite pad. I do neither. I let air-dry for about 2 hours, then follow with 1-Shot UV Clear in a spray bomb. Let that dry about an hour then weed, but do not mask until just before applying. Other "airheads" use Createx paints and an airbrush, which is probably the correct procedure. I once had failure with auto body basecoat/clearcoat. That's pretty much why I prefer to paint a nice wet blend with a brush! No vynull needed. Love...Jill
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
I use vinyl screenprinting inks on both cast and calendared films.
I had problems with 3M cast films rolling up on the edges, seems that stuff is really soft and the inks really bite into it, but the repositionable adhesive doesn't have enough initial tack to keep it laying flat. Had this same problem when using Krylon too.
Avery A8, A6 and Neschen Pro Gloss don't seem to have this problem.
I like using the inks. Even though they smell pretty aweful they don't require any vinyl prep - no pre-cleaning, no scuffing, no clearcoating either. Other than wiping off fingerprints it's just as simple as removing the job from the plotter, hanging on the wall and spraying.
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Mike,
Avery makes an enamel receptive vinyl, but, as Ian mentioned, longevity is the question. It's only got a life of 1-2 years for outdoor applications, is only available in white and is made more for temporary/indoor signs.
I've used the Krylon Fusion paints to do simple fades on lettering. It's designed to adhere to plastics and works well on both cast and calendered films when done in the method Jill described.
I've done this a couple of times when using the airbrush for more detailed shading and highlighting..... I cut the letters and apply a light coat of UV Clear before weeding. After drying overnight, I use 1Shot lettering enamels through the airbrush, allow time to dry, then weed and apply. So far it's worked well and the bonus is that you don't have to worry about overspray/masking on a vehicle since the airbrushing is done on the bench.
Hope this helps... Rapid
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Mike..I airbrush on vinyl all the time.
My method is to use auto basecoat/clearcoat. cut the vinyl, spray the basecoat, wait 1/2 hr and spray the clearcoat, wait another 1-2 hrs and weed.
Warning though...if you lay the basecoat on too heavy it WILL wrinkle the edges of the vinyl.
I don't scuff or use any kind of base "primer", just wipe off fingerprints etc. with PrepSol ot RapidPrep.
Only "real" failure was identical to what Mike Pipes mentioned, edges "curling" and in my case it was on translucent vinyl.
I do the sparying on Avery A8/9 and on 3M 220 series.
Posted by Michael B. Wilson (Member # 4761) on :
Thanks for all your help! I did pretty much what you suggested Jill. The edges curled which I guess isn't all that unusual. I was using a calendered vinyl and Krylon. I'm gonna try a cast vinyl next and see what happens. Dave, what kind of paint do you use when airbrushing?
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Mike..I use R-M basecoat/clearcoat system. The basecoat is laquer based and the clearcoat is catylized urethane.
Works great for me (in a spray booth with proper respiratory protection)
Posted by Ian Stewart-Koster (Member # 3500) on :
I use a water-based airbrushing paint here called Tautflex-air. It really bites in,and is TOUGH. However, you need to keep light or you also get edge curl as mentioned above. A Taxi I did almost a year ago in reflective lettering with an orange to clear fade is still as good as the day it was done.
