Earlier I was asked to completly frost a few new windows in an addition to an old church.. The plan has changed a bit... They want me to see about actually applying a design that appears to look like stained glass..
These window are rather small 12 x 24 and there are 4 of them.
I can remove them and take them to the shop, but if I do so, I need to do it quickly because they are now hanging drywall in this addition.
Does anyone have any idea what I could do to these ? I know what I want to do art wise, I just don't know how to get it on to the windows to last...
any advise would be appreciated
Posted by Jane Diaz (Member # 595) on :
There is a craft paint available at most craft store (even our Wal-mart carries it) that is meant for glass. You buy the "lead" in strips and it sticks to the window and them you fill in the spaces with this paint. I haven't done it, but it doesn't LOOK difficult. The key word here though would be effect. These don't look like stained glass, but from a distance, it would give you that effect. My question to them would be, "how much do you want to add to the cost of what I proposed in the first place?" They have to understand that this is more work, more materials, etc. I'm sure some one else here will come up with other options, but this would be a less expensive method. It also would LOOK less expensive.
Posted by paul priestley (Member # 4313) on :
Hi leonard I have done this before and have used mactac translucent vinyls to achieve the effect then used the self adhesive lead strip over the joins the only bind is that you may have to lead both sides of the window. Most vinyl manufacturers will have a range that will imitate stained glass.
paul.
Posted by James Donahue (Member # 3624) on :
I've done it a number of times. Get a scrap of glass to qickly practice on, to see if the following methods are applicable to your situation.
The paints we use are meant to have good coverage (opacity). What you need is to make the paints more translucent. If you try to thinn the paint down with a solvent of sorts, it will be runny, and have a dull, lifeless look.
Roughly speaking, all paints are made of binder, pigment, and solvent. What you need to do is find the binder for your type of paint, in the case of oil-based paints, the binder will be varnish. A good dose of linseed oil or maybe penetrol, really helps the paint lay out smoother, and eliminate brush/application marks. Mix the paint maybe 3 parts paint, 3 parts varnish, and 1 part linseed oil. Apply to glass. This mixture allows the paint mixture to remain thicker and stronger, yet pushes the pigment particles apart, to allow more light through.
I've done this for commercial window lettering backgrounds, and instructed the customer to light it from inside the store at night. It makes a nice effect.
Also, I'm experimenting with One Shot hardener, with promising results. The stuff is clear and pretty thin, yet appears to be very strong when dry.
Posted by William Holohan (Member # 2514) on :
Recently saw a product at an A.C. Moore store that may be what you are looking for. Sheets of translucent material that have the semi ripple surface that actual stained glass has. Multiple colors. Also with the half round faux came. Had the clear appearance of glass, not the cloudy effect of translucent vinyl. Remember thinking as I checked it out that from even just a couple of feet, that it would fool me. I imagine most large craft stores would carry it.
Posted by James Donahue (Member # 3624) on :
Paul is right about the vinyl, it has a more even look. Before, I would do the lettering part of a faux stained window job with spray equipment, then the background and ilustration with the above brush/paint methods. But there's a big hassle waiting 'till late so no overspray would get on passing cars and people. I really demanded that the lettering be more uniforn/even in it's coloring, now, the translucent vinyl elimnates the spray hassle. I use it in combination with the paint.
Posted by James Donahue (Member # 3624) on :
I typed that last reply in while William was replying. I was only trying to resolve any differences with what Paul and I said, not disagree with William.
That actually sounds like it might be the best product of all!
Posted by captain ken (Member # 742) on :
i did some really hot stuff with oracal 'transparent' vinyl... not translusent, transparent, its totally see tru, you can read a book through it, has a look like stained glass.
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
I must thank Captain Ken for his reply as I was beginning to see that some persons haven't the knowledge to know that stained glass is transparent and not transluscent. Transluscent may let the sun in but you certainly cannot see through it like stained glass.
Posted by Dan Streicher (Member # 4515) on :
we have done a similar project and I believe it would have looked better if there was not actual stain glass around in the same building as you could definately tell it was different, customer eventually had the final piece done in a stained glass and this was a temp fix that was only up for 3 yrs lol
Posted by Jon Aston (Member # 1725) on :
Leonard:
Another alternative to consider might be to subcontract to one of 4 SGO franchise locations in Indiana.
I met an SGO owner at a home show several months ago and was really impressed with the look of the finished product. I have no idea where they buy their film.
Good luck!
[ July 07, 2004, 01:02 PM: Message edited by: Jon Aston ]
Posted by Kelly Thorson (Member # 2958) on :
I have a glass spray paint here that is made by Crown/Excel - I believe it is a Wal-Mart product. Its made by K-G Packaging and the toll free number on it is 1-800-361-0094. It comes in both stained and frosted in a few different colors. Might or might not be usefull to you. It seems to be durable, though I would probably use it on the interior of the glass. I've used some of the craft stuff and I don't think it would cut it for this type of job. When it is damp out they tend to soften and cloud up. The lead strips work pretty good though. Another idea would be to use 1-Shot or Artists Oils mixed in with 1-Shot tinting clear. Adding texture with varnish might work too. The experts on reverse glass could probably help you somewhat on that. I think it might work if it was done between two panes. That would be my choice. BTW the vast majority of stained glass around here (particularily the real old stuff) is not all that transparent - I'd be tempted to use a combination of frosted, translucent and transparent vinyl to get an authentic look.
Posted by Leonard Sappington (Member # 4562) on :
Thank You Jon !!!
I think that's what I am looking for...
And thanks to all the residents who replied...
This is just another example to the Visitors why this place is worth 50 bucks a year...
Saved me TONS of research time... !!!
Posted by fayette pivoda (Member # 4339) on :
I would think that there'd be a clear vinyl you could run through a digital printer and then apply directly to the windows.
Hope this helps.
Posted by Arthur Vanson (Member # 2855) on :
Leonard, I have a gallery of cold glass painting at,
After I'd done quite a few pieces I was told that fading of the transparent paint is a bit of an issue, the manufacturers agreed but wouldn't give any idea as to how long and to what degree it might fade. Too many variables, a bit like asking "How much would it cost to write a van?" Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Just thinking out loud...
I'd mask it, hit it with foam brushes and bag it with 1Shot Pearlecent paints. It's pretty transparent and the pearls would give it a nice effect. Finish by painting the "lead" with silver paint. A couple of highlights and shadows along the edges......
Hmmmmmm.....where'd I put that piece of glass from the entertainment center.....? Rapid
Posted by Jane Diaz (Member # 595) on :
Arthur, those are really beautiful! You got ME interesting in trying something like that! What a great idea! Don't you just LOVE this place!! Posted by greg baker (Member # 3337) on :
we just finished 2 windows in our local church. They were designed in photoshop then printed onto etch vinyl with our soljet, they loved it!
Im still new at this website so as soon as I can figure out how to put an image in I can show you wht it looked like
Posted by paul priestley (Member # 4313) on :
Aint gonna argue over the wrong choice of word joey, been in the trade 25 years and still get things wrong.
Posted by William Holohan (Member # 2514) on :
Joey, Like Paul, I not going to quibble over the use of the wrong word. To clarify my post though, the material I saw at A.C. Moore was in fact transparent and not translucent as I mistakenly stated.
Posted by Rich Stebbing (Member # 368) on :
The link that Arthur provided looks to have the answer,....great work Arthur.
Posted by Leonard Sappington (Member # 4562) on :
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
![[Applause]](graemlins/clap.gif)