Hi Hedz. I have a job coming up next month, still in the early-early planning stages. It will be completed by myself and Bill Berberich (AKA Chilly-Billy-Silly-Jilly Sign Co. when we work together)
It is a logo to be painted on a new pole-building type structure which is clad in Vinyl siding. (pale yellow) My questions are:
What do I need to do to prepare the surface? Is it OK to use 1-Shot? (I planned to)
Thanks in advance. Love...Jill Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Duuuhhh? What is a pole building type structure? Also ...what kind of vinyl siding? Is it just a logo? Can you paint the logo area with tiecoat?
As you probably already know, 1Shot does not stick to most vinyls...at least not very long.
Acrylics (both latex and solvent base), as well as vinyl screen inks, will bond very well.
Posted by Bill Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
I would not use 1 Shot over vinyl siding, Jill. Plasticizers migrating to the surface within the vinyl will cause the 1 Shot to fail unless you put down a barrier coat first, but if you have to you can use 1 Shot's #5004 as a primer under their lettering paints as a barrier coat or use 100% acrylic house paint in the premium brand of your choice. Try to use ready mix colors with the acrylics and double coat everything. It helps to "NOT" paint acrylics in direct sunlight if at all possible. I like the semi-gloss or satin sheens the best.
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
Si, A pole building is a kit-type structure. It is made like a big barn, with wooden trusses & beams inside, and it can be covered in vinyl or aluminum siding or even brick. This siding looks to be vynull. I had a feeling that 1-Shot might not want to stick to it. I thought that there might be some kind of prep-cleaner type product to maybe give the siding some tooth. I have painted on aluminum siding with 1-Shot in the past with great results that still look nice after 7 years in the sun. Love...Jill
Posted by Bill Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
Jill, most pole buildings in Illinois are sided with corrugated pre-painted steel. If that is the case with your building, you can paint those types of surfaces with 1 Shot. I have several around lettered with 1 Shot and always had good results.
I've personally never heard of a vinyl clad pole building, unless it would be a section of the building around the office area, etc.
Posted by Jane Diaz (Member # 595) on :
Jill, would you be able to get a little sample of the siding from the owner or be able to do a test patch somewhere to see what sticks? Since yu have some time, you could experiment a bit with it. Posted by jack wills (Member # 521) on :
Hi Jilly Baby,
Here's what ya need. X.I.M. 300 clear flash bond. We use it on the old galvanized billboards when the paintin' days still exsisted. Ya might call a few paint stores in advance as I hear around these parts... the VOC talk. Si, ya need to git out yonder ways to see them pole barns, yooz has been stuck in the big city too long.
Love ya Jilly CrazyJack
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
j.
I would get the building manufacturers name and give them a call. They can tell you what the materials are and may give suggestions for painting.
We allways scotchbrite and use a prep solution to remove any waxes, or surface materials. From there you may need to prime.
j.
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
If the building is sided with vinyl, do yourself a favor and get some vinyl ink and reducer...it's smelly, but foolproof. It letters just fine and STICKS.
[ May 12, 2004, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: George Perkins ]
Posted by PKing (Member # 337) on :
Get "test" piece at once. George,s (ink)process is less time involved. Use a "deerfoot" angular fitch for best sharpness on corners. Use correct retarders,reducers,etc.
Hope this helps
Posted by Danny Busselle (Member # 3746) on :
Hi Jill Make a Test and see if a good Shellac,Like Bullet. that's real old school when I am in doubt Shellac it first always works.
Posted by jimmy chatham (Member # 525) on :
take a piece of magnet to see if it is steel.
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
UPDATE! Yay! It's STEEL. Bill and I went to the site yesterday. A magnet sticks to it. And it's vertical siding too, not the slatty horizontal stuff, so it won't be too big of a pain to paint. Just clean it, right? Bill is making a paper pattern as he feels it will be a better job. We have to paint over a 2" PVC pipe, and he plans to mix up some "background" color paint so that it blends in. Should the pipe be coated with shellac or tiecoat or even 1-Shot speed dry UV clear first? Thanks for all the help & advice, guys. You're the best. Love...Jill (BTW, we did a small job on a T-111 trailer yesterday with fitches, made it look aged like a Dennis Gerathy or Mark Fair sign. It took 3.5 hours and it looks so nice! I used a Letterhead font from the free CD we all got at the Muster)
Posted by Bill Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
1) Use acrylic latex house primer on the pvc pipe and then paint with your 1 Shot lettering enamels
2) Letter with 1 Shot and double coat any bright reds. Triple coat maroon. Use lettering enamel instead of bulletin color.
3) If the building is corrugated which it probably is. You can run your design out on transparency film or cut the design small in vinyl and project that puppy at night -- if the terrain will permit you to get back far enough to avoid any distortion with the projection. This is way quicker than patterns. Project early in the morning before the sun comes up. Go have breakfast and coffee and come back ready to paint when it's daylight.
4) Use pencils to transfer the design on to the steel. Clean off the areas to paint with a solution of 1 gallon water/ 8 oz of rubbing alcohol/ 1 oz of dishwashing detergent. This won't remove the pencil lines, but ghost them out to the point where they won't be visible and will fade away quickly.
5) This is as easy as falling off a log, so keep those jokes comin' and have a great week!
![[Thanks]](graemlins/thanks.gif)
![[Dunno]](graemlins/dunno.gif)