We're planning on replacing some vinyl stripes on a boat and we're wondering what vinyl to use? the stripes that are on the boat right now seem to be quite thick compared to the vinyl we normally use. Any tips on how to do this right?
Thanks
David
Posted by Phillip Newell (Member # 4618) on :
Hello fellow Michigander,
Any high-performance 2-mil cast vinyl with a solvent adhesive will work fine. I prefer avery A8 myself. But 3M Scotchcal or Oracal 851 are other popular choices.
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
Avery A8 has a more aggressive adhesive, a big plus for this type of job because the material will resist lifting if water is forced over it.
The existing stripes may have an overlaminate on them to make them more durable.
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
You may also wish to try Rapid Tac products for this job, if so, get free samples by e-mailing your street address to; mail@rapidtac.com
Roger Posted by Dan Streicher (Member # 4515) on :
I recently had to replace the "striping" on a 63' Carver...nice boat by the way (nicer than my home)....and I actually contacted the manufacturer and they sent me a 3" clear roll of vinyl X 42 yrds (thanks for the extra material....) that on the back side had the 3 different colored vinyl stripes appropriately spaced...so no matching, cutting, spacing...etc....just followed the ghost of the old stripe in the gelcote...and wham bam thank you mam...quickey stickey, but just a side note some of those highend boats have some serious wax built up on them, that means we got some scrubbin to do before anything, so just keep that in mind if it appliest to your situation
Posted by Murray MacDonald (Member # 3558) on :
I do beleive that Carver employs the Mad Striper From Hell...have done several Carvers and modified the striping to avoid the multiplicity of 1/8" stripes they seem to favor. But it was funny to see Deb get stoned on acetone when she forgot to wear her mask while cleaning the adhesive off from the old striping! MUR
Posted by Don Coplen (Member # 127) on :
Designing stripes for boat companies used to be a part of my job description. Actually, there are machines that cut and mask vinyl striping, in most any configuration. 1/8" stripes are easy when a machine is doing the work.
Much of our vinyl was Avery HP. The other brand we used was Duramark. Only difference really was the choice of colors. The most important thing is to make sure whatever brand, you use only high performance.
Oh, and do yourself a favor and take Roger up on his offer. You're going to need the Rapid Remover to take off the old stripes and particularly the adhesive residue...and his Rapid Tac will make laying the stripes on the boat a whole lot easier, and bubbleless. (yeah Roger, I've been converted)
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Don, I LOVE YA MAN, Murry, stop killin yourselves with those caustic chemicals, get some of my free samples.
You and your health insurer will be happy you did !! Roger Posted by Dan Streicher (Member # 4515) on :
Before I start my little message here I want to preface it with I LOVE RAPID TAC and all the other product from our loyal helpful supplier here.....but (Behold The Underlying Truth)....I feel it is very important to use these types of products in a more controlled environment than learning how they work and how to work with them than on a job site, especially a floating 1/2 a million dollar job site...except for the rapid remover and elbow grease as it is much more forgiving than scubbing above mentioned vessel with X type solvent. I just think it is prudent to practice and learn in a environment that you are not able to screw up a larger job with variables, play with new products on $20 signs not the big stuff.....just my two cents and the rapid products work excellently and are appropriate for this job, would just hate to see you do a wet application with a 20' 40' 60+' multicolor stripe with a marina full of yachtees watching you and end up having to yank it and start over....one time I was working on a yacht and had my keyring over the antenna on my cell phone with my truck keys sitting on the dock, turned around to answer a question and kicked them into the brown willamette river never to be seen again....so put your keys and phone in your pocket as well when you are on this type of job...probably the best advise I could give you
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Dan, not to open a flood gate to a lengthy argument but, we make these products for just the reason you are cautioning against (screwing up).
What I mean is, when using our application fluid, the job becomes so easy that children can do it, they make the application of "preasure sencitives" almost mistake proof.
I don't think I would want to apply a stripe of those dimensions dry (especially with limited experience).
To each their own, but R.T. products are like insurence against problems !!
Roger Posted by Dan Streicher (Member # 4515) on :
No argument Roger....just my opinion, and we can all do as we please....but I have seen the other side of the coin (I used to sell your products)I believe it would be foolish to try any product or technique that you are unfamiliar with on a jobsite (my opinion) I have seen MANY people do a wet application, make a multitude of bad choices, quickly remove the transfer tape, not use transfer tape, use wet app method when they should have used dry....the list goes on you make a great product but I think you are oversimplifying what we all do by stating that a child could do it...especially when we are talking about replacing a multi layered stripe on a boat (myself I would do this one dry application I'd start at my left hand side pull back 10" of backing align at the beginning correctly to the existing ghost in the gelcote and squeegee with a felt squeegee or a squeegee wrapped in a tyvec friction sleeve vinyl in my right hand and run down the gunwhale of the boat following the ghost...easy....vs....having to work out all of the fluid...for me a great time saver for someone who does one boat a yr if that NO WAY), and not a 1 color 18" X 24" quicky sticky sign....as a professional I would NEVER use a new product with no experimentation and just jump in and use a unfamiliar product, nor would I encourage anyone else to do so. but with this insurance against mistakes that you are talking about hell I'll try anything new and if I make a mistake on that job I'll call you and file the appropriate claim....(I know what you mean and I also know that you are the number one believer in your products and I have never and will never question the quality of your products, it is just my contention that as professionals we all need to do our OWN product research with the materials that we use and not just take the advise of the people selling it...and not only that we all need to make our own decisions as to the appropriateness of the products that we use as we are the ones liable for the results...unless we come up with that insurance thing) if X brand vinyl fails, the vinyl company will not compensate you for the time that it took to make the sign, they will replace however much vinyl you used to do the job (read that warantee sometime....) I think it is wonderful that you sample your products to new users, but we as professionals and business owners need to decide the appropriateness of said product for each application as we are the ones liable for the work we produce and not you. I commend you for your quality products none of your competition compares in my book. Respectfully, Dan Striker
Posted by David Nyman (Member # 3399) on :
Thanks for all the answers!
I belive we decided to go with Avery A8 for this job. I forgot to mention that we're NOT going to remove the old striping. I told our customer that we will be happy to put the new stripes back on, but when it comes to taking it off, I made that mistake once before on a truck. Not getting into that again.
Roger, we got a package of samples about a year ago now and we love it!
Dan Streicher, fortunately this boat(yacht) is still not in the water:)
Never did a boat this big before (32') so I hope we're not going to run into too much trouble. Wet apply or not?, there are a few stripes that are as big as 12 inches high... we'll see how it goes, our motto is "there's nothing we can't do!" guess we gotta live up to that now...
Thanks again,
/David
Posted by Pete Sharkins (Member # 4525) on :
I just finished a complete restripe of a drydocked 44' Gibson houseboat using A8. I applied the thin stripes dry, and the wider ones wet. I am one to do most all apps dry, especially striping. For this job, it was well worth the extra time spent on floating the wide ones for my oh-so-scrutinizing (but extremely grateful) customer. He didn't mind spending the extra ching for the extra labor to get the near perfect job. The boat truthfully looks better than new .
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
When you guys talk of "taking more time to do it wet" I'm lost, I have raced folks before and applied wet in less time then they did it dry? Whats that about?
Roger Posted by Todd Gill (Member # 2569) on :
I'm wih Dan....no knocking R products, but there are many times when dry is simply a better choice.
I striped a lot of boats in my day...and I find that trying to apply a multistripe around the compound curve of a boat can be troublesome.....the multistripe tends to slide down and away off your desired location as you're laying it around the hull and working towards the bow.
Dry tacks it into place just enough....
Personally, and this of course varies from each individual....I only use wet on really big stuff that's hard to position otherwise....but even then I know there are installers who can whip out a big wrap job in no time flat dry.
Certainly...use the wet method if you're more comfortable with it.
Posted by Dan Streicher (Member # 4515) on :
Oh Roger....are you serious?
Posted by PKing (Member # 337) on :
It has "always" been the job of the professional to do TESTING of (any & all) products we use!
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Murry, stop killin yourselves with those caustic chemicals, get some of my free samples. ![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
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