I was talking with a fellow 'Head a couple of weeks ago and she mentioned making four color process heat transfer prints on their EDGE machine.
She told me that she had good luck with them looking good when printed and holding up fairly well when heat transferred, even on dark colors.
I was chatting with the person who does EDGE prints for us and was told that the print quality was awful and they didn't hold up for nothing.
These prints are for our new bowling team shirts. Dana and I bowl with my Mother and Pop every other Saturday night. I has considered using Stahl transfer material, and actually bought a small piece from a local guy, but would really like to be able to have full blown color.
What is the straight skinny on this? I am looking for real life advice and answers.
Thank you!
Posted by Stephen Faulkner (Member # 2511) on :
I have a halfas answer for you Bruce... I have used the Gerber product and it prints just like regular vinyl.... process looks the same too, I hate process images though I think they are cheesy to the point where I'd use 12 spot colors to get it right... (enuff editorializing). Now then the plastisizer that gets transfered feels like jack daniels and day old pizza stuck on your shirt after a bad weekend ... or like a a really thick glazed donut for those of you in recovery. As far as washing it, well I don't wear the shirts because of the fore mention discomfort so right now they look brand new. I'd consider cutting a plastigraphics PVC-10 stencil and some free hand airbrush techniques for a truely unique and way cool short run. Reminds me of a kid from Broklyn I know that was a tagger he used krylon rattle cans on carhart jackets.... the works would rival the best airbrush guys I know... but thats another story aye? Good luck Bruce and have at it!... did I ever tell you the story about bowling for mail boxes??
Posted by Sunny Holtzlander (Member # 4012) on :
I do all three. I screenprint, use Thermoflex and a heat transfer, and I also use Gerber Heat transfer material.
The order I just mentioned them, is the order of preference of quality in my book.
I prefer screenprinting for quality. I use Thermoflex for names and numbers on team shirts, and I use the Gerber heat transfer material on shirts, mainly for gift items that won't be used alot. Especially around Christmas time where customers want pictures of their kids put on shirts to send to the Grandparents. I've never had anyone complain about the Gerber prints, but since I produce all three, I can see the difference between them.
Posted by DianeBalch (Member # 1301) on :
BRuce
How large of an image do you want?
If it is a dark shirt, you can't use the Gerber transfer paper- it is only good on lights and whites. For dark color, you Edge print on Heat Transfer white which I get from Hyatts, It is made by Arrow Systems in Niagara Falls. It is thick like heavy vinyl. As far as washing- it holds up bettter than the HP inkjet iron on stuff. You can wash it about 50 times before it starts to fade. It is fine for small areas, wouldn't recommend it for large solid areas. I can send you a sample.
Screen printing is the most durable and has a soft hand.
Diane Balch
Posted by DianeBalch (Member # 1301) on :
If you want at least 15, Stahls can make you iron on transfers for light or. dark color. They screenprint the image onto a paper and partially cure it. You lay it on the shirt and use a heat press for about 15- 30 seconds.
Diane balch
Posted by Bob Rochon (Member # 30) on :
Stephen,
I've never used the transfer foils, but I know Hyatts has a paper you can use the normal foils on for heat transfer.
And as of last week I got a cmyk print out of my edge that Floored me, I think it would even have the inkjet guys crying. cant even tell its a print untill you get about 6 inches away and then its still great.
Using omega 2.02 with classical dot at 68. just blew me away.
Posted by DianeBalch (Member # 1301) on :
Bob
The heat transfer Paper uses the special foils. They can only be used on whites or lights.
The Heat Transfer White uses the regular foils. It is thick. Nice to print on.
I use them both and get them from Hyatts.
Diane Balch
Posted by Mark Perkins (Member # 296) on :
Bruce it sounds like you need some sublimated shirts, full color and will never fade. Doesn't work on dark colors but with careful color selection will print fine on ash, light blue, beige, and orange. Kissy is on your end of the world check with her and I think she does them, if not I do.
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
I do them all the time on white shirts. They look great to me and all my customers. Not as good as screenprinting, but printing 15 shirts full color has way too much costs in film & screens, so the edge is the right tool for the job. The arrow white stuff diane is referring to is thick, but OK for small areas IMO. Large areas are too much of an unbreathable sweat magnet to enjoy wearing.
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
I do my own work Tshirts with my inkjet printer.
Avery, Canon, Xerox, and some others make a tranfer paper for ironing onto shirts.
Look great on white or very light colors, and hold up quite well.
Werks fer me!
PS.... I have one Tshirt that was done with an Edge tranfer,,,,looks and held up just about the same as the injet transfers
[ January 25, 2004, 01:47 AM: Message edited by: Si Allen ]
Posted by Dave Draper (Member # 102) on :
Bruce, I thought most bowlers weren't sober enough to notice things like.... quality. Posted by Danny Palmer (Member # 95) on :
They sell a thinner, edge ready material. If used in a "block" it may still feel a bit heavy. But if you contour cut your design, it's not much heavier than a screen print on dark garments.
I also like their cad-cut material better than Stahls or Dalco.
Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
Hey Bruce,
I have printed more than a thousand shirts with the LT foils.
Properly done, they are an excellent alternative to screening for short runs on light colors. Even large prints are supple, breathable, and have a good feel, unlike HSP.
Keep in mind that sublimation does not work well on 100% cotton.
I have shirts and hoodies nearly ten years old that still look good today.
Steve
Posted by Stephen Faulkner (Member # 2511) on :
Steve Purcell !! Please Elaborate for us all.... damn if I can make Hyatts rep give me accurate info... I have not heard of this LT stuff or special foils and so on.... I'm sure I asked the wrong questions. Also what heat press do you like for use with this process? I would like to print on dark or light without all kinda changes and special voodoo formulas.
Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
Stephen, I'm not in the t-shirt business, and I really don't want to be, so I keep it very simple.
I only use Gerber LT foils on HTP, and I only print on light colored (up to stonewashed) cotton fabric. No hot split, no dye sub.
I use an old 15" heat press from Nat'l Screen Print, and I run it at just under 400 degrees for about 25 seconds.
For anything else, or if cost is an issue, I send it to a trusted pro.
Posted by Mark Rogan (Member # 3678) on :
I've done a few shirts (dark navy) with the Arrow material Diane mentioned. I get it from Hyatt's, too. Just don't do a huge area as it will feel "clamy" against your skin. The colors hold up great in the laundry and I feel like the "heaviness" of the original transfer gets a bit lighter after washing a few times, too.
![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
... or like a a really thick glazed donut for those of you in recovery. ![[Frown]](frown.gif)
but with careful color selection will print fine on ash, light blue, beige, and orange. Kissy is on your end of the world check with her and I think she does them, if not I do.
![[FYI]](graemlins/fyi.gif)
![[Smile]](smile.gif)