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SO, this probably a stupid or obvious question to a lot of the people here, but I used to work at a shop where the owner put little thumb screws in the top of one-shot cans, so he could unscrew it, pour out a bit and put the screw back in. The shop I work at now doesn't do it this way, but as I am starting to try and learn hand lettering on my own, I'm getting my own cans of paint, and was thinking of using the thumb screw thingies. Does anyone else do that? And if so, where can I get them, at a hardware store? I'm really trying to learn lettering but I'll be the first to admit I dont know much. Thanks for the help!
-------------------- Chris O'Brien Cape Cod, MA Posts: 183 | From: Cape Cod MA | Registered: Jan 2005
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I tried this once and when the paint dried in the hole it was hard to get it to unscrew. So I just left them in there and I just take the lid of now and pour it.
-------------------- Jamie Whitley 55 Calhoun St Reynolds, GA (478)951.2475 Posts: 51 | From: Reynolds, Georgia | Registered: Feb 2006
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I got you beat Jamie Whitley, last year I got in my car and it wouldn't start, the starter was moving very slowly so I just left the car there and now I just walk wherever I want to go.
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
-------------------- Harris Kohen K-Man Pinstriping and Graphix Trenton, NJ "Showing the world that even I can strategically place the pigment where its got to go." Posts: 1739 | From: Trenton, NJ, USA | Registered: Jun 2001
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Get a self tapping screw (usually called a sheet metal screw, probably a #8 or #10), the kind that has an end that looks like a thin drill bit, and use them. make sure there is no oil on it before you insert it into the top of the paint can. Then, just shake the can well, remove the screw, and squeeze the bottom of the can if it's getting empty.
You should really check out the info on Joey Maddens website, about paint savers and such:
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auto fender bolts, they are about 1", pointed,we use a 1/2" wrench to "thread" into center of can.
pilot hole naturally, remove,squirt-i.e gravity, then let a glob or good drop of the same 1-shot to sorta "seal" the threads of the above bolt & by hand simply give it a good twist or 2. Occasionally we have to "scrape" the build up off the lid,and drop the bolt into thinner to remove the buildup. we have plenty so it's never a "hurdle". Keeps for quite some time,but if the paint 2 air ratio is low 2 high, well.....then you have to refil 1/2 pt. ( anti-scim technikue) or.....BUT,you'll get practice for the world one-shot can shucking contest held every year in.....i think it's @ Rapid Rays place.
-------------------- mark zilliox mark z signs 8425 pushaw station rd. owings md. 20736 301-855-5407 thezs@earthlink.net http://www.markzsigns.com Posts: 348 | From: maryland | Registered: May 2003
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This is a real traditional Thumb Screw which I personally use, there are no imitations although there are other screws which can work but at one time or another you'll need to use a pair of pliers for those and not for these as your thumb and finger will always work on this one.
Is this what you want?
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
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I'm gonna look for some of those at the hardware store tomorrow! Maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks Joey. Love....Jill
Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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You could use a riv-nut, then just use a plain thumb screw. A sheet metal screw wont seal well and will eventually strip. I'd use a little gasket washer, or an o ring too.
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I use the #10 or #12 (What ever is laying around) roofing screws used for Sheetmetal roofing they have a rubber washer build right on the screw then put the screw in the bottom part of the can. That way no air is introduced to your paint and you can really control your flow..(Slowly) If you want much more just pop the top and let it flow. That way and skin stays above your paint.
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Joey- that's exactly what my old boss used in the cans, and it seemed to work pretty good, but it seems like a lot of people do the same thing with different stuff. I'll swing by the lumber yard's hardware dept. and see what I can dig up. I know we got tons of self-tappers at the shop, and the ones with the little rubber seal seems like a good idea. Now I just gotta get painting!
-------------------- Chris O'Brien Cape Cod, MA Posts: 183 | From: Cape Cod MA | Registered: Jan 2005
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Hey all do some searches for the thumb screws. I once thought 25 for $13 was a good deal but last week I bought 50 for the same price. Sorry I can't find my receipt so I don't know where I got them.
-------------------- Rob Larkham Sign Techniques Inc. Chicopee, Ma Posts: 607 | From: Chester, Ma. | Registered: Apr 2002
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bust thru the hard crap with screwdriver when ready to pour
set can back in cabinet "lid" will form over fresh paint in 2-3 days
repeat step 4 when ready to use
-------------------- You ever notice how easily accessible people are when they are requiring your services but once they get invoice you can't reach them anymore
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6712 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I'm in. I use the sheet metal screws with a hex head (#8 1/2"). I put the screw into the lid, near the edge, with a nut driver. Shake well!.
Turn can upside down and remove screw. (I'm assuming we are using 1/2 pint cans) Squeeze the sides of the can (like the old oil cans) to get a somewhat measured amount of paint. Replace the screw, BEFORE you tip the can back up. (I use a paper tissue to quickly wipe around the screw to remove remaining paint before tightning the screw).
What happens is that any air that gets into the can has to pass thru the paint first and it picks up solvents. So the air at the top of the can can't cause a skin.....if a screw hole gets stripped or loaded with paint, just make another hole with a new screw. I get to the botttom of every can of paint.....all the way up to gallons.
I can also stack the cans (right side up).
Use it as you choose!
Joe,
Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
-------------------- Joe Cieslowski Connecticut Woodcarvers Gallery P.O.Box 368 East Canaan CT 06024 jcieslowski@snet.net 860-824-0883 Posts: 2345 | From: East Canaan CT 06024 | Registered: Nov 2001
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Joey, Can't say if it happens everywhere but here at 7000ft my paint skins over very quickly as it so Dry up here. If I leave the lid off a can of 1shot it will skin over within the day.
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yes Bill now I remember the ol'days before I got a lifetime supply of Paint-Sav. I'm sure alot of signpainters remember that stuff but forgot to include the future in their plans.
Bruce Ward, and how often does anyone remember that the skin contains important properties which are removed from the paint over a simple task like putting a lid on the can. I could remember visiting signpainter friends back in the 60'70's and seeing that kind of system and would get sick thinking what their home kitchen must look like
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
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No joy at my hardware store, but a friend who works there is going to look at an old hardware store by her house. Love....Jill
Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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I'll have to try that on our Gallon Cans Joey. To see if that helps some.. I don' have Paint-Sav but I do have a Spray that we use in the 5 Gallon Jugs of Resin to keep the moisture out. Guess I should read the label and see if it works for paint.
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After watching this post play out, I have decided to reveal my secret to paint handling. After years of frustration, I decided to design my own product for paint distribution. After many failed attempts, I have found the ultimate way to make paint pouring/sealing a thing of pleasure instead of dread.
There are 2 eliments to this. The first is the 5" long chromed steal friction release tool. Now stay with me on this, it gets kind of complicated. The friction release tool is incerted in the top of the can. Generally at the far edge. Once forming a tight seal with the can top, you apply a down and outward pressure to the top of the release tool. Now it takes practice to get it right, but it can be done. Once the tool has released a large enough opening in the can I am able to put a aggitation device within the can to make sure all materials are sufficiently combined. At this point it gets kind of tricky (practice, practice, practice) I will then take the can and using my wrist, I slowly rotate the can (this can be done to the left or the right) and as the can rotates, the paint will filter out of the above stated hole into what ever container you are using at that time. When the container is filled to the right capacity, I then start rotating the can in the OPPOSITE direction. This is very important. Once the can is back to it's original degree, I will then take the portion of the top and replace it on the said can. BUT we are not done! To finish this, you must make sure that the reattached portion is sealing well with the base can. And thus our tool #2... It is a gravity/force powered device that took a long time to perfect. But with the help of Granpa Dan and his multicam. I was able to get the pieces made to the exact demisions. When using, you simply hold in hand and move arm (And help from gravity) to apply a slight blow of pressure to the reapplied portion of the can. By doing this in a efficient manner you are able to secure the portion back to it's original state.
Now I am only releasing this to my fellow members of this BB. It is copyrighted. If you would like to purchase my device for your own personnel use, please give me a call and I can have my distributor (Abracadbra signs) get one shipped out to you asap!
I have attached a picture of the tools for your viewing pleasure below......
-------------------- Snow's Sign Works 865-908-0076 snowman@planetc.com www.snowsigns.com
I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message... Posts: 1640 | From: Sevierville, TN | Registered: Jul 2005
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hahaha... Jake, that reminds me of helping my dad frame houses. If something needed to be adjusted slightly, he would get out "The Persuader" ... better know as the sledgehammer. Always worked.
-------------------- Chris O'Brien Cape Cod, MA Posts: 183 | From: Cape Cod MA | Registered: Jan 2005
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Jake, you forgot to mention positioning yourself (& requisite clean white shirt) in the direction of that blue drip puddle over on the right, prior to rotating the "persuader" into position!
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That's why I use my persuader to drive a sixteen penny (not the cost--it's the size of it) nail in a number of spaces places through the bottom edge of the cleverly designed circular paint reservoir that is usually aimed at my white shirt. The reservoir is visible as the blue drip puddle Doug mentioned.
-------------------- David Harding A Sign of Excellence Carrollton, TX Posts: 5084 | From: Carrollton, TX, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Joey gave me 2 thumbscrews(OUCH) and his plastic container w/ lid and ball bearing(OUCH again) plus some of his palette cards. Well, i've never used them...they are in my Museum Collection ...
He is a Pro all the way. later got some poor substitutes thumb screws... but forgot to use the paint-sav! well, there is more time, i hope! meanwhile, i'm cutting skins off and losing important ingredients, crap!!
so many ways to not get it right, i'm trying them all! BTJohn
-------------------- John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts 5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada bigtopya@hotmail.com 604.451.0006 Posts: 2184 | From: Burnaby, British Columbia,Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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Joey, I have about 1/2 a can of that there paint Salv stuff, & I noticed it has a nice tar smell to it, like asphalt on a hot day, or something. I'm sure somebody has to figure out how to make this stuff!
I have wondered, tho, when your paint in the can gets lower & lower & you have more & more of that salv in the paint, doesn't it change the properties of it?
Hey, Jilly, let me know if you find somma them screws!
-------------------- The Word in Signs Bobbie Rochow Jamestown, PA 16134
724-927-6471
thewordinsigns@alltel.net Posts: 3485 | From: Jamestown, PA 16134 | Registered: Oct 2002
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David, you're looking deep into the words, seeing things others are missing, have you got a net or lifejacket on??? you're getting under my skin!
John
-------------------- John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts 5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada bigtopya@hotmail.com 604.451.0006 Posts: 2184 | From: Burnaby, British Columbia,Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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JAKE ! that was the best picture-post in the "humor" category for me!
i gota' go this am & sling some fantastic plastic on a truck up the road-but....BUT i will reply with my "version" of the Southern Maryland DIY pic-how 2 open i shot.........friday !!!
stay tuned sir,carry on & well done. sometimes this BB takes itself too serious. Aughiteee. Zman
-------------------- mark zilliox mark z signs 8425 pushaw station rd. owings md. 20736 301-855-5407 thezs@earthlink.net http://www.markzsigns.com Posts: 348 | From: maryland | Registered: May 2003
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Quick note: Ordered the screws from NutsandBolts late on the 23rd. Got them early this afternoon via UPS. Now that is service. Thanks Dave Utter. Very good source.
-------------------- William "Irish" Holohan Resting...Read "Between Jobs." Marlboro, MA 01752 email: firemap1@aol.com Posts: 1110 | From: Marlboro, MA | Registered: Dec 2001
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you're getting under my skin!
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